Mathias Log

October 2024

Agrikulturen VS 4c, 20m sec FZ

Dirty Harry 5a, 20m sec FZ

El Kamino VS 4c, 20m sec FZ

Solsting 6a, 20m sec FZ

September 2024

Ablaham , 2h 🤿 🎬Video FZ

2 dives with Frits. 16m depth. Spotted Lobster and Large Crab. Kullen diving is as good as Kullen climbing: really mediocre. But it is close by.

August 2024

Originalruten VS 4c, 20m sec PE

Great weekend with sailing and climbing. I was not climbing much due to a badly injured left elbow. Too much repetitive boat/engine/diving work.

July 2024

Sealand Round , 4h 🏄 ⛵ AX

20 days of sailing around sealand. Enough epics to fill a trip report.

June 2024

Mathias Anchorage , 4h 🏄 ⛵ EW

Afternoon outing with 8 young guys and two young girls. Swimming from the boat out at an achorage/buoye I have found next to Trekroner.

Strandgade , 1h 🤿

Photographing Jorns remaining propellar. And started cleaning Big Lady. With scuba gear this will work really well.

Tuborg Havn , 2h 🤿 FZ

Searching for Jorns propellar. Did not manage to find it.

Charlottenlund , 4h 🏄 ⛵ AX HW

Evening trip to bonfire anchorage. Return solo around midnight. All night systems worked beautifully.

Strandgade , 2h 🤿 🍒🔥 SD

First dive under my boat. Awesome experience. Found an empty safe. Really exciting dive.

Trekroner , 6h 🏄 ⛵ family

Fourth trip. Family outing. Ferrying 30 people from Amerikakaj to Trekroner. All systems worked well. Fuel consumption seems to be very reasonable. Brilliant day out.

May 2024

Svanemollebugten , 20h 🏄 ⛵ 🍒 solo

Third trip. Well prepared this time. Exciting to leave single handed. All worked well and anchored up for the night. Home day after in the afternoon.

Svanemollebugten , 5h 🏄 ⛵ 🍒 EW

Second trip. Great weather. Exit of canal a bit gnarly but apart from that all went perfectly smooth. Anchored up which also worked great.

A major tick! Went out with Big Lady on a succesfull out and back with plenty of maneuvering and technicalitites with the huge boat. Couldn't have wished for a more perfect mayden voyage sharing it with my forever partner in crime. Yoor! I am now introducing a "Medal" icon 🎖 - this indicates one of those transformative experiences that happens every 10 years. An experience that opens up new chapters. This was one. And there are a few more down below in the log.

February 2024

Limone , 🏂 👟 UH

Repeat ski rando now with Uffe. Great day out and more fun being two! We had to quiche on the steep last bit - it was too icy and without ski crampons there was no grip.

Limone , 🏂 👟 solo

Good walk up to Fort Central. Did a steep uphil zigzag at the end. Quite gnarly without crampons. Must get some.

Boves ED, 4h 🚴 🚙 AX HW

Great trip with an additional two rented e-mtbs.

January 2024

Furesoeen , 10k 🏄 ⛵ 🍒🌤💯 EW KN

Brilliant ice sailing with Knudsen. Perfect conditions. Amazing speed and delicate control. Yoor!

December 2023

Jordan Valley , 100k 🚴 🚙 FW

Hunting trip with off road vehicle. Drove all day in savage terrain, never spotting other than deer. We had tags to shoot an Elk, which we did not find.

Shafer Trail , 72k 🚴 🚙 🍒🔥💯 solo

At the spur of the moment, I decided to drive off-road back to Moab from Dead Horse Point. A bit late in the day with only 2 hours light left it was a bit touch and go. Totally wild drive and incredible nature experience.

30 seconds over Potash 5.8, 25m 🧤 lead SP

My introductury lead to MOAB sandstone climbing.

Lucy in the Sky with Potash 5.10a, 25m sec- SP

Had to rest on the rope for the trickiest section.

Potash Bong Hit 5.9+, 25m 🍒🔥 lead SP

Just brilliant jamming and flake climbing. Happy to get to the top clean.

Static Cling 5.11a, 25m sec- SP

Sean almost climbed it clean. Really fingery climbing.

Flakes of Wrath 5.9+, 25m 🍒💯 lead SP

Storming route. Perfect hand jamming and a sting at the top with a undercling roof traverse with no feet to speak of.

Bad Moki Roof 5.9+, 25m 🍒💯💪 sec SP

Last route of the day. Excellent jamming through the roof. It took all my remaining yoor to second it clean.

November 2023

Limone ED, 4h 🚴 🚙 🍒💯 EW

Excellent trip into the mountains with Emil and the e-MTB's. We ended up on the top of Limone and had a lot of fun ridin the (empty) resort slopes down.

September 2023

Exhibitionistens Frustrationer HVS 5a, 15m 🌤 lead LP, JG

Ridge visible from the JG hut. Excellent route. Spectacular setting. Really worthwhile.

Kuseskraeck VS 4c, 10m lead LP, JG

Nice puzzle. Had to make most of the few pieces of gear placements available.

Bondage E1 5b, 15m lead FZ

Great handjam test piece.

Graevlingesex VS, 15m lead FZ

Enjoyable fistjamming

Tunnsprickan VS, 25m lead FZ

Oles Crack HVS 5a, 25m lead FZ

Frits had a bit of a struggle trying to lead it. Fell twice and ripped the gear both times.

Ninja-Sara VS 4c, 25m lead FZ

Great long route from the base to the top of Lexby. In the new guide.

Plugghaesten E1 5b, 25m lead FZ

Oktober HVS 5a, 25m lead FZ

Great Crack E2 5c, 30m 🥀 dnf FZ

Had to bail again! It was fairly damp deep inside the crack but still. I need to get someone to take me up this.

July 2023

Roervig , 6h 🚴 🚙 solo

Tried with Scotty first but he is yet too unsettled for longer trips. Went to Hundested, ferry to Roervig and then trailed the beautiful landscape down to Holbaek and back home. Excellent space on the roads, not much traffic.

June 2023

Roedvig , 5h 🚴 🚙 solo

Bananblocket E1 5b, 25m 💪 sec MH

Harder than I remembered.

Stopper E2 5b, 25m 🍒💯💪🔥 lead MH

Tick of the day! I have been wanting to try this for a while and with Michael I felt ready. A sustained jam fest with mostly small hands, fingers and the odd fist. Boy was I glad to get to the top spanked and happy.

Robins Crack E1 5b, 20m sec MH

Michael was struggling in the crux with a high step. I had my hands full seconding.

Spagaten HVS 5b, 20m lead MH

Snet til Hoejre HVS 5b, 20m sec MH

Espilon E1 5b, 20m lead MH

Couldnt believe I had not climbed this obvious line before. Brilliant.

Babianen VS 5a, 20m lead MH

Ormens Fader VS 4b, 20m sec MH

Finish to Panda. In itself an excellent route.

Panda E1 5b, 20m 🍒 lead MH

Had been on my wishlist for a while. Did not disappoint. Brilliant splitter continueing from previous route.

Ants in my Pants E1 5b, 20m sec MH

Tricky start needing a rare combination of umfph and careful route finding!

Sneda Sprickan VS 4c, 20m lead MH

May 2023

Hornsherred , 5h 🚴 🚙 AX AL

Excellent trip with Allan and his new bike.

Gulag E3 6a, 35m 🍼🧤 alt FZ

In search of a clean splitter had us engaging in this swedish 6+! Probably E3. Excellent fun. Had to hang a couple of times and on a desperate bulgy, dirty and grassy finish I used a point of aid (foot sling) to reach a branch in the top. Fairly desperate. I have learned now from experience (Sesam) that not all routes get climbed and if they do they may just be done on top rope up to a certain point. This means that you may be climbing something that feels "well trodden" and they after all the physical struggles you may arrive to a horrendous un-groomed finish. Last pitch was a 20 meter pure layback crack. Also a bit dirty but excellent fun.

Hällere den anden E1 5b, 10m 🌤🧤 lead FZ

Tricky start.

En trumpen vaar E2 5c, 10m 🌤🧤 lead FZ

Newly opened area (2022) with a handful of 10-15 meter jam test pieces. This one was OW and had me at my limit of capabilities.

Stina S, 25m sec FZ

Mia E1 5b, 23m lead FZ

Easier graded in the book but the committing finish makes it E1 in my book.

Jakob E1 5b, 23m 🍒 lead FZ

Clean granite slanting jaming. Brilliant.

Spectra E1 5c, 20m 📸 lead FZ

Fired up for more. The more technical neighbor but not as long and majestic. Fun!

Kaminokul E1 5b, 30m 🍒💯 lead FZ

I had spotted this climb a few times earlier and finally it was dry for us to engage. What a line. A crack/chimney from base to top. An absolute full on yoor fest.

Queen Elizabeth VD, 20m sec FZ

Weird guidebook description. Grade completely off.

Prinsessan E2 5b, 20m 🍒💪 lead FZ

Beautiful line. Hard fingery crack. Glad it went free. Excellent remote location in a the forest near a deep dark lake.

Prins Hat VD, 20m sec FZ

Store Björn E1 5b, 20m lead FZ

Revisiting this climb to start the morning.

Letta Leden VS 4b, 50m lead FZ

Excellent afternoon climb and start to an extended weekend.

April 2023

Oroe Round , 4h 🚴 🚙 🍒 AX

Excellent motorcycle trip with Axel. Cold but sunny. We visited a local animal park at the island which was brilliant. The talking and laughing parrot Cookie was a highlight.

Biscali ED, 3h 🚴 🚙 🍒💯🔥 solo

Crazy E-MTB ride. Went up the mountain with vague idea of the area. I had spotted smoke in the distance and also firefigthers while driving up in the car. My round trip was committed in the mountain landscape (at some point I could not return back the way I came) and I had to go straight through a full blown forest fire with fire on both sides and embers on the path (!) and to top it up, helicopters and planes above throwing water down. I luckily hit a short window where they were not throwing water down but it was all super intense and quite dangerous. I was most nervous about puncturing the tires on the hot embers as I would be very screwed in that case (with a heavy e-mtb). All went well and I ended up with an eventfull tick in the bag.

March 2023

Limone Via Ferrata VF, 200m 🔗 🌤💪 solo

Lack of partners I ventured into the high alps for this ViaF. Plenty of doubts along the way, but at the end I gave it a try and quiched one third of the way. Mainly due to uncertainty of the conditions of the descent; in particular if it would be snowy/icy, in which case I would be severely screwed. Also I didn't bring any sunscreen or water which was a bad. I will be back.

Artesina , 🏂 👟 🍒🌤📚Report 🧭Topo solo

Absolutely brilliant and exciting ski rando. New equipment worked perfectly and my skills on skis in steep powder was satisfying. Amazing full day out. Epic return through the valley.

February 2023

Artesina , 🏂 👟 🍒🌤

7 days of skiing and snowboarding with the UVR team. The conditions were perfect with massive snowfall prior to 4 days of perfect sunshine and deep powder. Artesina is a brilliant resort. Maybe my favorite.

Chamonix , 🏂 👟 🍒🌤 AX, EW

5 days of skiing and snowboarding in Cham. Stayed at the Chamoniard Volant like I did first time i 1995.

Bakveien W4, 100m ⛏ alt JC

Excellent route to finish the weekend. The ice was plenty thick in the narrow gully. Done in 2 pitches.

Foererkomiteen W4+, 60m ⛏ 🍒💯🔥 alt JC

Off the beaten track this monster route needs all the dedication you can muster. Approach was done in snow shoes and was tough going. The reward was a sustained climb from the base all the way to the top. I was at my absolute limit.

Sabotoerfossen W5, 200m ⛏ 🍒 alt JC

I did the middle pitch and belayed in an ice cave on the right. Pleased to be able to lead grade 5. Done in 3 pitches

August 2022

Sesam HVS 5b, 25m 💀🥀 lead JJ

I was so fired up after the previous route that I had Jill belaying me up an ultra manky and downwrite dangerous route. 20 meters up I managed to pass an extremely dodgy loose boulder the size of a washing machine, and standing on top of this boulder I decided to bail from an in-situ rusty friend and my backup sling.

Letta Leden VS 4b, 50m 🍒🦎💯 lead JJ

2 pitches, 50 meter in total. Second pitch is a jamming marathon. Perfect route in that grade. A bit like Blue Sky from Pembroke.

Oventat Besog HVS 5b, 20m lead JJ

Start of this one is really tough for the grade. Great route.

Varnarn E1 5b, 20m lead JJ

Boulder start, exciting unprotected slab mid route and an brilliant jam corner to finish.

Myggarnas Flugt HVS 4b, 20m sec JJ

Beautiful line. Excellent climbing.

Norsk Espresso E1 5b, 20m lead JJ

Jill had a go at leading but it is clear that you need firm jamming skills to find these types of route easy. We lowered her down and I led instead.

Dolomittravers HVS 4c, 30m lead JJ

A neighbourghing crag to the popular Hoegberget. Real impressive and the high level traverse did not disappoint. Classic adventure climbing.

Olivia VS 4a, 20m sec JJ

Feministiskt Initiative HVS 4c, 20m lead JJ

Gave Hoegberget a chance to shine and I still think the place sucks. The rock is dirty and there is seepage here and there. I don't know why people rave about this place. I do need to have a go at Yamamoto, but it was ... wet.

July 2022

Rungsted , 🏄 ⛵ 🍒🌬💯 EW

Superb down winder in beefy wind and full sails all the way.

Skovshoved , 🏄 ⛵ solo

Finally a perfect wind from Christianshavn to Skovshoved.

Jamspricka VS 4c, 12m lead KK

Exploring a new area near Dingle. True adventure climbing place. This route is a short little piece with grand routes behind. The guide book says: bring small nuts and double rope

Store Björn E1 5b, 20m 🍒 lead KK

Pure splitter on sharp rock. Crack between hands and fists, but plenty of depth to take the whole arm. Super pleased to get to the top clean despite being spanked at the final bit. Just brilliant. No gloves.

Norsk Espresso E1 5b, 20m 🍒🌤 lead KK

Stricking line on a really great crag. Superb climbing all the way.

Joannas Led E2 6a, 10m 🍒🤸🔥🧤 lead KK

Pure splitter. So close to ticking this beauty clean. It was basically the final move and I was spanked and didn't have enough umph to pull over the lip. Got it after a quick hang on the friend. Perfect hand size all the way. Gloves.

Sillunchen E1 5b, 35m 🍒💯📸 sec KK

Absolutely brilliant route. Great lead from Kristian who unfortunately subsequently had to withdraw from climbing and resort to belaying only. Problems with elbows.

Champangefrukost E1 5c, 35m 🌤 lead KK

Back to finish an unsettled bill. Excellent route, though a bit broken by the midway ledge. Ate my full rack. Crux is in the roof.

Blame Canada HVS 5a, 20m 🍒 sec KK

Vad ar otid E1 5b, 8m Link sec KK

I andra hand HVS 5a 5a, 55m 🍒🦎📸 alt KK

Ettan E2 5b 5c, 55 🍒🦎📸 alt KK

Finally we entered center stage. Good to get on it and less intimedating than when looked at from afar. I led the first easier pitch and Kristian the second.

Troettmoessans Tystnad HVS, 20m 📸 sec KK

Christianshavn , 🏄 ⛵ solo

Nixten E1 5b, 20m 📸 sec TW

Vad ar otid E1 5b, 8m lead TW

Pretty happy about this finger crack tick.

Stackanda Myror S, 10m 🧤📸 lead TW

Easier version of Tims Tabu.

Tabu E1 5c, 10m 🧤🍒💯📸 sec TW

Amazing OW using hand-fist stacks. It really worked. I was glad Tim led it and really impressed with his abilities.

Salsa HVS 5a, 30m lead TW

Tjuvjakt E2 5c, 15m 🍒🔥📸 sec TW

Excellent route at Binghult.

Staalfaal E1 5b, 15m 🍒 lead TW

Climbed next to crackmaster Pete Whitaker and his super crack climber of a girlfriend.

En liten bit granit E2 5c, 15m 🍒📸 sec TW

Excellent lead by Tim.

Bjornbarssnarigt E2 5c, 20m 🍒🤸 lead- TW

Very close to a real mother of a whipper. I went up above my last nut placement to commit to the crux move and accidently kicked the nut out with my foot. That ment I was now in a committing move and looking at a double length whipper with hurting consequences. I managed to reverse the moves and while loosing power to the pump I just managed to place a friend in, clip it and Tim took in for me to rest and re callibrate.

I andra hand HVS 5b 5b, 55m 🍒🦎 alt TW

Sir William E2 6a, 20m 🍼 lead- TW

Haller Myr is a pretty place but the routes are not. Apparently the neighbourgh 7- is easier than this one.

Gradhyllan HVS 5b, 20m 📸 sec TW

DNA E1 5b, 35m 🍒 lead TW

Palimpsest HVS 5a, 40m 🍒📸 sec TW

June 2022

Den hoeje travers HS, 45m 🍒🦎💯📸 lead AX

Tyskerruten VS 4c, 22m 🍒🌤 lead LA

Great day out with Lasse and the kids

Wolfgang Amadeus E1 5a, 12m 🍒🌤 lead LA

Master and Servant E1 5b, 10m 🍒🌤 top

Thunderlips VS 4c, 10m 🍒🌤📸 lead LA

On motorbike to Kullen. Excellent day out.

King Kong E2 5c, 25m 🍒🍼🌤 sec EE

Emil won the toss of the lead. Good job. I struggled in the crux and had to pull on the gear to get up.

Tyskerruten VS 4c, 22m 🍒🌤 lead EE

Absolute Kullen beauty

Titanic 6c+, 18m 🍼 sec EE

Great little sport route. Had to pull on the gear

Thunderlips VS 4c, 10m 🍒 sec EE

This is a great route.

Master and Servant E1 5b, 10m 🍒 lead EE

Giacomo Puccini 6b+, 10m 📸 sec MH EE

Climbed with the Danish climbing legend Hjorten.

Franz Liszt E1 5a, 11m sec EE

Wolfgang Amadeus E1 5a, 12m lead EE

Myretuen S, 18m 📸 sec EE

Myregangen VS 4c, 18m lead EE

Broken English HVS 5a, 10m 🌤 sec EE

Excellent quality rock. Just too damn short.

Lasercamp , 🏄 ⛵ AN

Excellent day of sailing and racing in Knudsens Laserjoller

Silstyparen HVS 5a, 15m lead FZ

Clean ascent. Gear on left side of harness.

Kanten E3 6a, 20m 🍒🤸🍼 lead FZ

One point of aid. Found it impossible to move around the arete. Excellent route after the burly start.

Jamspricka Nr 1 E2 5b, 25m 🍒💪 lead- FZ

This time I didn't have a hangover. I was on for it. Still had to rest on the rope once - my hands were cramped up. I think it is more like E2.

Climb it VS 4c, 10m 📸 lead FZ

Drambuie VS 4c, 15m lead FZ

Nice little spot.

Koskovenor VS 4c, 15m lead FZ

Chivas Regal VS 4c, 15m lead FZ

Himmelberget VS 4c, 35m lead FZ

Great long expedition

One move of Sex E1 5b, 15m 🍒💯 lead FZ

Awesome corner route. Gets grade 6 in the book and badly protected. Complete bollocks. It's easier and well protected. Great route.

Hollywood E3 6a, 15m 🤸 lead FZ

Fell on the crux - again. Excellent sporty route. I gave it E4 6b last time, that I think it too much. No more than E3.

Rosa paa Bete VS 4c, 15m lead FZ

Worthwhile route. Looks a bit manky from below.

Slowfox VS 4c, 45m 🥀 dnf FZ

Manky. We went up a wrong start and decided to leave it for another day.

Jug VS 4c, 15m sec FZ

Aelgens Overraskning HVS 5a, 20m 🍒 lead FZ

Brilliant route as always.

Pi Kuan HVS 5a, 15m lead FZ

Skovshoved , 🏄 ⛵ 🌬 solo

Returning the boat to Rungsted. Beefy wind. Had to make an emergency stop in a harbour on the way for sail only (engine failure) which went really well.

Christianshavn , 🏄 ⛵ 📸 EW

Moving the boat to ChrHavn for the kids to stay in the center. Excellent concept.

April 2022

Babianen HS, 60ft 📸 sec FZ

Done a second time to reach the ledge and abseil down the two previous routes to clean them

Pyton E1, 20m 🥀💪 lead FZ

A monster of a route. Was spanked at the crux and physced out due to the exposure and sketchy hang on a single rope with sharp edges on the rock. Good gear throughout. Will be back to attempt it again.

Boa Constrictor E1, 20m 🥀💪 lead FZ

Description in the book is wrong. Had to back off this due to lack of large gear

Vraalapan E1 5b, 10m lead FZ

Good pumpy number. Did the left-round-the-block version.

Babianen HS, 25m 📸 sec FZ

Till HVS 5a, 30m lead FZ

Halta Felix HVS 5a, 12m 📸 lead FZ

Worth while route in that area

Monster Crack E1 5a, 8m 📸 lead FZ

A bit tricky to get to but excellent route. Photo is of the crux

Catch 22 E2 5b, 10m 🍼📸 lead FZ

Had to pull on the bolt in the start. Excellent finishing move

Groena Sprickan HVS 5a, 15m 📸 lead FZ

Looks a bit manky from below but it's totally worth it. Excellent fist jams to get your through the roof

Leeper HVS 5a, 10m 🎬Video lead FZ

Traverse is fairly sketchy. Finishing move requires umph

Roennleden HS, 15m 📸 sec FZ

Hunters Hole , 1h 🪖 🍒📚Report TW AX PW

Excellent 3 in one trip. Read Axel's trip report.

Rhino Rift , 2h 🪖 TW AX

November 2021

Jingling Pot , 2h 🪖 🎬Video TW AX

Sell Gill Hole , 2h 🪖 ☔ TW AX

Axels first visit to the Yorkshire caves

October 2021

Blame Canada HVS 5a, 60ft 🍒🎬Video lead FZ

Brilliant route. You abseil down to the base and have to climb out. This is the easiest route out.

Sex i smyg S, 60ft sec FZ CA

Toker och Glader HS, 60ft lead FZ

Droemmen om Snoevit S, 60ft lead FZ CA

Prosit och spader VS 4b, 60ft lead FZ

Baesta Leden i Valesrod E1 5b, 60ft lead FZ

September 2021

Navnloes HVS 5a, 14m lead FZ

Den lille Skorsten S, 14m lead FZ EW

Beta E1 5b, 14m lead FZ

Well worth it. The area above K2 is not as loose as it looks from below.

Swlabr VS 4b, 14m lead FZ

This route is crammed in betimeen 2 more obvious lines. Total eliminate.

Wang Dang Doodle HVS 5a, 14m 🔩 lead FZ

Excellent route. Bomber protection throughout.

Single Handjam VS 4b, 20m lead FZ

Great route, excellent protection throughout.

Japanerruten VS 4c, 20m lead FZ

Diedren K2 S, 14m lead FZ EW

Good to be climbing with Emil

August 2021

JG Wedding f6a, 25m dws JG LP LW

Sodome et Gomorrhe f 6a, 25m 🔩 lead JG LP LW

Easy Walling VS, 30ft lead RS

The Real 20 foot Crack VS, 30ft 📸 sec RS

Hunters Hole , 1h 🪖 TW AX

Axels first SRT trip

Swildons Hole , 1h 🪖 FW AX EW

We got to the down climbs.

Goatchurh Cavern , 2h 🪖 🍒 FW AX EW

Axel and Elias did the drainpipe.

July 2021

Soenderborg-Aabenraa , 5h48m 🏄 ⛵ EW CW FW TR HW AX UH

3rd leg.

Denmark-Soenderborg , 5h48m 🏄 ⛵ EW CW FW TR HW AX UH

2nd leg.

Kiel-Denmark , 5h48m 🏄 ⛵ 🍒 EW CW FW TR HW AX UH

Start of weeks sailing with 3 rental boats.

Geels Skov , 1h 🚴 🚙 🤸🥀💀 LA EW

Major crash while doing a major gap. Bent a few ribs.

June 2021

Rungsted , 🏄 ⛵ EW

Returning the boat from ChrHavn. No wind, engine throttle cable broke half way. Managed to rig a temporary solution with string and pulleys to make it all the way back. Exciting trip.

November 2020

Bantaren HVS 5a, 60ft lead FZ

Place gear on right side of harness.

October 2020

Hoggfarmen E2 5b, 20m 🍒📸 lead FZ

Stunning line and a great route. If you are looking for pure splitter fun in Bohuslan (and you are) then this one is a really good choice.

Mallorol E2 5c, 60ft 💪🍒💯📸 lead FZ

On an otherwise rainy weekend this one suddenly came into the suggestion pool. Luckily the sun broke through and we climbed this classic in perfect conditions. It wasn't clear to me where the broken foothold was.

Aaterkomsten HS, 40m ☔ sec FZ

Barnleken E1 5b, 40m 📸 lead FZ

Worth doing for the diedre in the top. Brilliant.

September 2020

Landerslev , 1h 🏄 ⛵ SG

June 2020

Mot Sola HVS 5b, 550m ☔🦎🥀📚Report dnf KK

First roof section was dripping wet and we decided to bail.

Linker Einstieg Agent Orange VS, 400m 🦎 alt KK

Excellent last route if the 3 day visit. The roof part is brilliant.

Haegar E1 5b, 550m 🌤💯☔🦎🍼 alt KK

The striking line of the area. We were doing pretty well though I had to pull on the gear in the crux roof - it was soaking wet.

Gone with the weed VS 4c, 550m 🦎 alt KK

January 2020

Monday Money W4, 220m ⛏ 🥀🦎 📸 alt SF

Picked one of the big ones. Long walk in and an absolutely knackering climb up to the base of the ice fall. We started the first pitch but were drained after the walk and hill climb. We bailed.

Valmiana W3, 200m ⛏ 📸 alt SF

Good conditions throughout. Had the route to ourselves.

Cascade Lillaz W3, 200m ⛏ alt SF

August 2019

Brinks Byoye , 🏄 ⛵ 🍒 solo

Glass flat water but with a light breeze. Moored up at Brincks boye and swam in to shore for a beer. Daren drum useful for keeping the towel and clothes dry on the swim. Brilliant.

Originalruten VS 4c, 20m sec FZ

Straight Flush 6b, 40m 🔩💯 sec FZ

Sailed to Kullen with Spooky and MTBikes. Excellent concept.

Ven Singlehand , 🏄 ⛵ solo

Liaucous VF, 500m 🔗 🍒 lead AX

It was so good we had to do it twice. Next time we need pullies for the final zip line.

Liaucous VF, 500m 🔗 🍒 lead AX

Excellent Via Ferrata in Gorges du Tarn

May 2019

Babianen Direkt HVS 5a, 60ft lead KR

Mirceas led E2 5c, 60ft top

Self top rope. No partners. Brilliant practice for finger crack techniques.

April 2019

100 dagar E1, 25m top

Kenneths Led VS, 60ft lead KR

Gunnars skraeck VS, 60ft lead KR

Bananblocket E1 5b, 60ft lead KR

Oles crack HVS 5a, 60ft lead KR

Robins crack HVS 5a, 60ft lead KR

March 2019

Ozzimosis W4, 60ft ⛏ lead FZ SF

Fabrikkfossen W3, 60ft ⛏ sec FZ SF

Rjukanfossen W4, 60ft ⛏ 🍒💯 lead FZ SF

Frits fell in the lake on the way in.

De kaller meg fjaard M7, 60ft ⛏ 📸 lead TW

I had top-roped this earlier in the season and the lead went smooth. It is well protected by bolts on the rocky bits. Excellent route.

Bullen W3, 60ft ⛏ lead FZ SF

Gaustaspoekelse W4, 60ft ⛏ lead FZ SF

February 2019

Nordkroken W5, 60ft ⛏ sec JC AK

The Undertaker W5+, 60ft ⛏ 🍒💯📚Report sec JC AK

January 2019

Birthmaker W4+, 50m ⛏ 🍒 sec JC

John in his element. Linking two lines on Gausta making this one.

Unnamed W4, 50m ⛏ lead JC

Gaustatoppfossen W4, 50m ⛏ 📸 alt JC

Trappfoss W4, 200m ⛏ alt JC

I Just Love a Nice Stein Pull! M6+, 60ft ⛏ 💪🍒 sec JC

October 2018

Tjabo HS, 60ft sec FZ

Roennleden VS, 60ft sec FZ

Ingers Parla VS 4b, 40ft lead FZ

September 2018

Runt Hoernet VS 4b, 60ft lead KR

Tunnsprickan VS 4b, 60ft 📸 lead KR

There was Yoor flowing everywhere that evening. Climbers everywhere - even a team, 2 girls and a guy, starting up a face aid climbing in the dark as we left - totally on for it. The girl flood litted the face with a handheld kowalski light while aid-boy was making his slow progress upwards. They had the yoor.

Ekorren f6a, 10m 🌘 lead KR

Bearnie f6a, 10m lead KR

Kanten f6a, 10m lead KR

August 2018

Champangefrukost E1 5b, 60ft 🥀☔ lead MB

Did first pitch and then bailed at the ledge because of the rain.

Prismaster E1 5b, 55m 🍒💯🔥 alt MB

Our ambition for the weekend ticked.

Amurleoparden HVS 5a, 📚Report lead MB

A 5+ slab beauty

Berguven E1 5b, 60ft lead MB

Easy for the grade

Tag mig harifron S, 60ft lead MB

Byggeman Bob S, 60ft lead MB

Oedhumlan S, 60ft lead MB

Baesta Leden i Valesrod E1 5b, 60ft 🍒 lead MB

Monkey style pull up in the roof

Palimpsest HVS 5a, 60ft lead MB

DNA E1 5b, 60ft lead MB

Slippery when wet VS 4b, 60ft lead MB

Bergkirstis polska E1 5b, 60ft 💪💯 lead MB

Nearly slid off in the crux.

Hoppande Norrman E1 5b, 10m lead MB

Ven Nord , 🏄 ⛵ 🍒🔥 CW EW

Excellent trip. A few dramas. Engine stop on the way into harbour. Nearly struck by lightning in the night.

July 2018

Moen , 1h 🏄 ⛵ FW

Nice to get out. Dad and Fred on shore admirering my shenanigans.

Pollux HVS 5a, 10m lead FZ

Megera E2 5b, 15m 🍒💪 lead FZ

Happy with onsight of hidden gem of grade 6 jam crack. Sustained and awesome.

June 2018

Skaerselden HS, 15m lead KR

La Traviata S, 15m lead KR

Flygande Maran VS 4c, 60ft 🎬Video lead KR

Alfa Helix HVS 5a, 60ft lead KR

Torrsimmet VS 4b, 20m 🍒 lead KR

Excellent route. Nice to have big gear for the wide cracks.

Tjabu D, 20m lead KR CA

Fars Dag D, 15m lead KR CA

May 2018

I andra hand HVS, 30m 🍒 lead FZ

Ornen S, 30m 🌤 alt FZ

Blaabaerrisset VS, 30m lead FZ

Off width to chimney. Burly.

En fyra for en myra HS, 30m alt FZ

Jaernkaminen VS 4c, 60ft lead FZ

Hakke Hakkespett HVS 5a, 10m lead FZ

Kalle og Molo HVS 5a, 10m lead FZ

Finished with swimming in the nearby lake. Absolute paradise.

Byggmester Bob S, 10m lead FZ

Aelgens Oeverraskning Direct E1 5b, 60ft 🍒 lead JC

A variation. Fun. Spaced gear.

Aelgens Oeverraskning HVS 5a, 60ft 🍒 lead JC

Excellent route. I had been wanting to do this for a while. Perfect warm evening for it.

Luftmadrassen HVS 5a, 60ft lead JC

Other side of the roof of Aelgens. Well worth it.

Jappe VS 4c, 60ft lead JC

A bit more stiff that the other ones of the evening

Jug VS 4c, 60ft 🍒 lead JC

John had hurt his finger so he let me lead everything this evening

Pi kuan HVS 5a, 60ft lead JC

A lot of fun. Going through the roof was tricky

Granny Smith HVS 5a, 60ft lead KR

Finally got round to do this. A bit manky in the crack and a ravens nest mid way (with a mother raven and dad raven flying around squeaking) made the route nice to have put behind us

April 2018

Braennvinsleden HVS 5a, 60ft lead

Bohemia E1 5b, 60ft lead JC

Excellent wall climb. Gear is there when you need it.

Gladiatorn f6b+, 60ft 🔩 sec JC

Sport Route. A lot of fun and really technical.

Hollywood E4 6b, 60ft 🤸 lead- JC

Tried a difficult route. Protection bomber and midway I thought I had it in the bag. And then the crux spat me off. Tried with difficulty to do the crux and eventually got it. Exciting. Will be back for a red point attempt.

Toblerone E3 6a, 60ft 🍒 sec JC

Awesome route. Really technical at the top.

March 2018

The Undertaker W5+, 60ft ⛏ 🔥💪📚Report sec JC

Absolute mindblowing beauty. Climbed with head torches at night.

Tjonstadbergfossen W4, 180m ⛏ alt SF

Swiss Army W4, 50m ⛏ lead SF

Camillas Foss W4, 200m ⛏ sec SF

To menn og et foster W4, 90m ⛏ alt SF

Sean dropped 4 of my ice screws on the route! Even so, we had a great time.

Bullen W4, 20m ⛏ sec SF

January 2018

Rjukanfossen W4, 80m ⛏ 🍒💯 lead KR JC

Brilliant route. Lovely walk in, route and walk out.

Bullen W3, 30m ⛏ lead KR

De kaller meg fjaard M6, 60ft ⛏ 🍒 top JC

Sabotoerfossen W4, 80m ⛏ 🥀 lead KR

Half of the climb.

Unknown W2, 60ft ⛏ lead KR

Swiss Army W4, 100m ⛏ lead KR

Liten og Full f6b, 8m 👊 solo

Till HVS 5b, 40m alt KR

November 2017

Gunnars skraeck HVS 5a, 60ft 🎬Video solo

Gunnars skraeck HVS 5a, 60ft top

Gritslabben HVS 5b, 60ft top

October 2017

Ockero to Malmo , 🏄 ⛵ 🍒💀🌬🌘📚Report HW DS

Transport of Spooky from Ockero to Malmo. One long stretch. Extreme. Most of it in pitch black darkness. Cold.

Alcove Crack HVS 5a, 60ft lead RS MB

Led the one Royston did the day before. A perfect route for rainy conditions

Chequers Crack HVS 5c, 14m sec- RS MB

Excellent lead by Martin. I popped off just before the rest midway.

The Thin End of the Hedge f6a, 60ft lead MB

Last route of the weekend. Flood lit bridge climbing.

Viaduct Crack HVS, 60ft sec RS

September 2017

Pocket Symphonie HVS, 60ft lead RS

The Thorn HVS, 60ft sec RS

Gargoyle Butress VS, 60ft sec RS

Zagrete HS, 60ft sec RS

Sneda Sprickan VS 4b, 60ft sec KR

Roennleden VS, 60ft sec KR

Svara Diedret E3 6a, 60ft top

Bantaren HVS 5a, 60ft top

Tioringen D, 60ft sec

I would say that is is wider not narrower than the other ow mentioned in the book. Excellent route.

August 2017

Kenneths snedsteg E1 5b, 60ft lead KR

Kenneths led VS 4c, 60ft lead KR

Gomorra VS 4b, 60ft lead KR

Lilla Hornet D, 60ft sec KR

Tunnsprickan VS 4b, 60ft lead KR

Svarta Diedret HVS 5a, 60ft lead KR

Borta med vinden HVS 5a, 60ft lead KR

July 2017

Allez au Diable f6a+, 30m 🍒 lead FW

Lynaes kite , 2h 🏄 ⛵ SG

Nice session with Soeren

Ockero , 👊 LP KR

Palimpsest HVS 5a, 25m lead LP

Fina Sprickan VS 4c, 15m lead KR

Next to Volvo. Brilliant fist jamming.

Spagaten HVS 5a, 60ft lead KR

SLMM 35K , 8h 🏂 👟 CW TW

Wonderful to be back in England running with Celine.

March 2017

Great Portland Street HVS 5b, 60ft sec TW

Great North Road HVS 5a, 60ft lead MB RS TW

Heather Wall VS 4c, 60ft sec MB RS TW

Eliminator HVS 5b, 60ft 🍒💪 lead TW RS MB

Agony Crack HVS 5a, 60ft sec MB RS

Cave Arete HVS 5a, 60ft lead MB RS

Saliva E1 5b, 60ft sec RS MB

Mississippi Variant HVS 5a, 60ft lead MB RS

Hell Crack VS 4c, 60ft lead TW

Bond Street HVS 5a, 60ft 🍒💯 lead TW

Straight Ahead HVS 5a, 60ft sec TW

Feministiskt Initiative HVS 5a, 20m ☔ lead KR

Soaking wet

Olivia VS 4c, 30m lead KR

Vaaroffer E1 5b, 60ft lead MB

A lot more tricky than it looks. The jams are flaring and not very deep. Glad it went free.

Fimbull HVS, 60ft lead MB

Game On VS, 60ft lead MB

Jaernkaminen VS 4c, 40m lead MB

Jungfrun S, 40m lead MB

Villskudd E1 5b, 40m 🍒💪💯 lead MB

Q.Robur HVS 5a, 40m lead MB

Anakje W3, 60ft ⛏ alt FZ

Introduction climb for Frits. The ice was the best I have climbed so far. One blow and the pick was placed.

Blindtarmen W4, 60ft ⛏ lead FZ

Good ice all the way. Highlight of the weekend. I found the second pitch pretty steep and sustained. Top belay was in-situ slings with maillon around a block (as opposed to the guidebook bolted belay) and the half-way belay and abseil point was to in-situ bala-threads without maillon. The guidebook description is odd: we walked up easy slope to the what we would describe as the first pitch. Did then a full rope length (50m) on quite steep ice and then a second 40m to the top with some bridging out of the left rock wall.

Fabrikkfossen W3, 300m ⛏ lead FZ

Nice long and easy for the grade I thought. Abseil on trees all the way down on the right facing the waterfall. Worked fine on a 50m rope.

Gaustaspoekelse W4, 60ft ⛏ lead FZ

Ozzimosis W4, 30m ⛏ lead FZ

February 2017

Patri W4, 100m ⛏ 🥀 alt PW

Everything I hate about ice climbing in the alps. Long walk-ins, queues at the routes and unpredicatable avalanche conditions. We bailed mid-way due to disagreements on commitments.

Acherote W3, 60m ⛏ 🥀 alt PW

Lillaz W3, 200m ⛏ alt PW

Better day than the day before. Finished with festive snowball attack on Richard and Tim.

October 2016

Jungfrun S, 60ft lead KR

Nunnegurkan HVS 5a, 60ft lead KR

Hoppande Norrman HVS 5a, 10m lead KR

Karlekstunneln E2 4c, 20m 🍒💀 lead KR

The great chinmey route that splits the massive lump of rock. Fall not an option as you would fall into the deep chimney.

SS Sloper f6c+, 10m 👊 🍒🎬Video LA

August 2016

Fingret VS 5a, 15m sec MB

Cora S, 25m sec MB

I andra hand HVS 5a, 60ft 🍒💯 alt MB

For You HVS 5a, 20m 📚Report lead MB

Troettmoessans Tystnad E1 5b, 22m lead MB

Den Gamla Klassikern VS 4c, 40m 🍒 alt MB

Excellent route at the main face of Haller. First pitch requires solid worming skills - bring a Camelot 4 for the crux. Second pitch is more difficult than the guidebook suggests but it does go. Be a bit careful going across the boulder choke and make sure you find the good hand hold on the right going through the final roof. Exposed. Well worth it. Walk off the crag going all the way across the ledges to the path in the forest. Yoor!

Oktober HVS 5a, 60ft lead MB

Jamspricka nr 1 E1 5b, 60ft 🍒💪💯 sec MB

Aatervaendsgraenden E1 5b, 60ft 🍒 lead MB

Crack of Doom E1 5b, 60ft lead MB

Asterix och Obelix VS 4c, 60ft lead MB

Tornerose E2 5c, 60ft lead FZ

Single Handjam VS 4b, 60ft lead FZ

Japanerruten VS 4c, 60ft lead FZ

June 2016

Plugghaesten E1 5b, 60ft lead KR

Back to settle a bill. This time it went free. What a route.

Fridstoraren HVS 5a, 60ft 🍒 lead

Spagaten HVS 5a, 60ft 🍒 lead

Alfa Helix HVS 5a, 60ft 🍒 lead

Braennvinsleden HVS 5a, 60ft 🍒 lead JS

Highlight of the evening. Boy was I pumped mid way. Quite strenous in the start traverse. A Cam3 is a real life saver (as always).

Roennleden HS, 60ft lead JS

Sneda sprickan VS 4c, 60ft lead JS

Hard if you are not a jamming master

Spagaten HVS 5a, 60ft lead JS

Snett aat hoeger HVS 5a, 60ft lead JS

Slightly harder that Spagaten next to it.

Josefinelust Overhaenget E2 5c, 60ft 🍒 lead FZ

First route of the day. This one had been on my wishlist for a while and what a route! Excellent line up perfect rock.

Flagermusen HVS 5a, 60ft 🍒💯 lead FZ

I had the feeling I had done this before (which I had, 13 years ago), but as I climbed it it all felt new. Brilliant route.

Aero f6c, 60ft lead FZ

Did this as the last route of the day. Super pleased that I onsighted it and had plenty of power to spare. Freak Brothers next!

Starfish f5b, 30m 🍒 lead AX CW EW

Karpouzy f6a, 30m lead TW

Tomboy f6a, 30m lead TW

Monahiki Elia f6a+, 60ft 🍒 lead TW

Back at sport climbing like the old days! Great place.

DNA f7a, 60ft 🤸 lead- TW

Took a proper whipper 3/4 way up

Joy in the Garden , 60ft 🍒 lead TW

Warm up

Remember Wadi Rum f6c, 60ft lead TW

Totenhansel f6c, 60ft 🍒💯 lead TW

Awesome climb on overhaning tufas

April 2016

Marie Rose f6c, 8m 👊 🍒 solo FZ JG LP LW

Great trip to FB with the Danish climbing mates. Ended up camping in the forest on a piece of cardboard. I love FB.

March 2016

Freedom VS, 60ft lead RS MB

Swatter VS, 60ft lead RS MB

February 2016

Bjornstadsbekken W4, 200m ⛏ 🥀💯 alt PW

A stunning line in perfect condtions. For some reason Paul did not want to finish the complete climb

Lillehammer W3, 20m ⛏ alt PW

Oppdal W3, 20m ⛏ alt PW

January 2016

Agnesberg W4, 20m ⛏ lead AK

Evening roadside ice.

October 2015

Fredagens led S, 20m sec KR

Robins crack HVS 5a, 25m lead KR

Excellent climb. Next time we will climb with without using the tree for the feet. :)

Bananblocket E1 5b, 25m 🍒 lead KR

Continuation of Robins crack. Excellent route. Thought we did a VS and it turned out to be E1 as we consulted the book afterwards. Nice!

Elektricitet VS 4c, 2m lead KR

Doable in the dark. Good for when you just can't get enough rock. Interesting little problem with an exciting finish.

Oles crack HVS 5a, 25m lead KR

After work climb. Excellent line. Remember to save the Cam 4 for the break. Negotiated the mantle in stranded whale style: it worked but it wasn't pretty. Excellent climb.

Climb it S, 10m sec KR

First onsight trad lead by Kaspar. Excellent effort.

September 2015

Plugghaesten E1 5b, 15m 🤸🌘📚Report lead- KR

Seemed like the easiest way up from the ledge. Great route shame I had to hang on the gear. Need more jamming practice. Lots more. Epic abseil (see report)

Originalruten VS 4c, 20m sec FZ

Mefisto f6c, 60ft 🤸 lead- KR

Franska Trick f6c, 15m 💯 lead FZ

Did this route as the last of the day: it was ambitious and I was super pleased I got up it clean. It was at the edge of my greasy fingers at the very top. It's an excellent route.

August 2015

Babianen HS, 60ft lead KR

Felt a lot harder than it should. Good effort from Kaspar as the routed required a few jamming moves.

Jocko HVS 5a, 60ft lead FZ

Cracks and Slabs S, 60ft lead FZ

Kapillaer VS 4b, 60ft 🌤 lead FZ

Excellent route done as the last of a bunch on a great sunny day.

Ventetiden S, 60ft lead FZ

Done in the approaching storm and darkness. Excellent to get a route in before camping.

July 2015

Oxford Canal , 9d 🏄 ⛵ 🍒🌤💯 EW AX

Bastille VF, 400m 🔗 🍒🌤💪📸 lead AX

Axel on the Grenoble via ferata. 9 years old. At the limit. The yoor made it happen.

June 2015

Nalle Puh f5c, 60ft sec FZ

Subba f6a, 60ft sec FZ

Rovjammet HVS 5a, 60ft 🍒💀 lead FZ

Absolute beauty. Next time bring a large cam.

Carl Gustavs HP f6a, 60ft lead KR

Nalle Puh f5c, 60ft lead KR

Silvias VF f5c, 60ft lead KR

Highway 66 f5c, 60ft 💯 lead KR

December 2014

Goatchurh Cavern , 2h 🪖 🍒 PW AX EW

October 2014

Lynaes , 2h 🏄 ⛵ SG

Morning session

June 2014

Mont Blanc TD, 4000m 🥀💪 SF

Excellent trip to Mont Blanc with Mark, Sean and Mark. Got to 4000 something and returned.

May 2014

To Gode Juggar 6b, 8m 👊 🎬Video LA FZ

Mr Magnet 6b, 8m 👊 🎬Video LA FZ

Hajfinna 6b, 8m 👊 🎬Video LA FZ

April 2014

Several Problems f6c, 8m 👊 🍒 solo TW PW AX EW CW

Awesome week in FB with 3 families. Should get a camper van for this sort of tripping.

January 2014

Ozzimosis W4, 60ft ⛏ lead

July 2013

The Corner HVS 5b, 60ft 🍒💯📚Report alt MB

Chimney Route VS 4c, 60ft 🍒 alt MB

Curving Crack VS 4c, 60ft 🍒 alt MB

Pedestal Crack HVS 5a, 60ft 🍒 alt MB

Last route of an excellent weekend at Cloggy.

June 2013

Landerslev , 2h 🏄 ⛵

Seesion with Michael Lasso. He subsequently got hooked, bought the gear, got injured, stopped.

May 2013

Vaxelstrom f6c, 8m 👊 solo

March 2013

Sabotoerfossen W5, 200m ⛏ lead AK

Verdens Ende W5, 20m ⛏ 💯 alt AK

Vermorkfossen W5, 60m ⛏ 🍒 lead AK

Vermork Bridge West W5, 60m ⛏ lead AK

January 2013

Fossil Rock , 30k 🚴 🚙 🍒🔥💯 lead EW CW AW

Mad 4x4 wheel drive in the desert. Camped mid-way and struggled to get out the day after as the wind has removed all tracks and we were completely left on our own to find our way (I had a guidebook). True epic.

July 2012

No Crack for Old Men f6b+, 20m sec TW

Papillon E2 5b, 33m lead PW

Off route. Pulled a loose block.

Zebra E2 5b, 33m 🍒 sec PW

Bixhead Mine , 2h 🪖 DG

Disaster Area HVS 5a, 33m sec RS PW

Shape-Up E2 5b, 33m 🍒 sec MB

Excellent effort of Martin. It is the easiest line out of Huntsman Leap and it is by no means easy.

Army Dreamers HVS 5a, 110ft 🍒 lead MB

Front line HVS 5a, 110ft 🍒 lead MB

The Arrow E1 5b, 110ft 🍒 lead MB

Bludgeon HVS 5a, 110ft 🍒 lead MB

Tactician HVS 5a, 110ft 🍒 sec MB

11. Bovbjerg Fyr , 3h 🪂 🍒 PP

Joined the yearly parafun meet. Awesome to be back in the air. Happy I hadn't forgotten. Brilliant to be back with the club.

March 2012

Vermork East W4, 120m ⛏ 🍒 alt SF

Super hard finish to a great weekend.

Kaminfossen W4, 120m ⛏ 🍒 alt SF

Excellent lead from Sean. Proper outing.

Bullen W3, 50m ⛏ lead SF

Sean kicked off the weekend of ice with a steady good lead up the right hand gully. Ice wet but good ice

Broken Pillar W5, 15m ⛏ 💪 lead SF

Just brilliant. Precarious climbing up the free hangin pillar. A peak of my sport ice climbing career

Topp W5, 50m ⛏ 🔥📸 lead SF

Unknown W5, 50m ⛏ lead SF

Easy lead, steep but with steps all the way.

Julevask W2, 50m ⛏ 📸 sec SF

Good route with a steady flow for the grade

Ozzimosis W4, 50m ⛏ 🍒📸 lead SF

Ticked this awesome classic of the crag. Great climbing all the way

Fyrstikka W5, 50m ⛏ 🍒📸 lead SF

My first WI5! intimedating looking from below but the wall training had me totally fired up for this sort of job. Super route.

Jomfrua W4, 50m ⛏ 🍒📸 sec SF

First WI4 lead from Sean. Inspiring lead from the old hatter.

May 2011

Landerslev , 1h 🏄 ⛵ SG

April 2011

Langle Ben f6c, 8m 👊 🍒 solo JG LP LW

Cool to be in FB with JG and the Danes. JG is an excellent guide to FB.

February 2011

JG Climb W3, 80m ⛏ 📸 alt JG

January 2011

Chamonix , 🏂 👟 🌤 solo

October 2010

Robinsson Pillar D, 7m lead JG

Hang to the rose/thorn. Comitting. Right foot small hold. Nice solid breaks

Freaking Crack VS, 7m lead JG

August 2010

Akerskanten IV-, 50m lead AN

Nice traverse followed by a short but satisfying climb up the exposed arete. Great to have Jakob following teaching Anton the ins and outs of rock climbing.

July 2010

10. Lindtorp , 1h 🪂 🍒 PP

Just as I thought I was getting comfortable with it all Allan phone me up with a last chance before going back to Copenhagen to try towing. I said yes and got towed up to 300 meters height and then released my thingy and had a mad mad flight down to earth. It was absolutely mental and I was just screaming and giggling the whole way down. Awesome kick!

June 2010

9. Toftum , 4h 🪂 🍒 PP

Brilliant session with lots of top landing and take offs. Managed to stay from the beach the whole time and was generally pretty much comfortable with everything. Great fun.

8. Bovbjerg Fyr , 4h 🪂 PP

Another great session at Bovbjerg. This time top starting and just enough wind to keep on hanging. It required care with the flying and I ended up on the beach a few times. Biggest tick was a couple of 100% self supported take-offs from a remoter spot and flying back to the others gaining height. Super satisfying.

Bovbjerg , 1h 🏄 ⛵ PP

7. Bovbjerg , 4h 🪂 🍒 PP

Awesome session learning to beach start. Quite tricky and also a notch up on the danger scale. Really good fun though flying low over the sand dunes and taking off and landing constantly. Also went with Poul flying all over to the lighthouse which was a great trip.

May 2010

6. Toftum , 1h 🪂 🍒💯 PP

The tick is in the bag! Ever since the first session in Toftum this place remained number one on the ticklist. Great session feeling really in control all the time. The new school wing is really comfortable and launches and handles really smooth. Did 3 succesfull top landings and 2 beach landings. The wind picked up in the end making the last run a bit epic.

5. Hamborg , 1h 🪂 🍒 PP

Fully self supported with Poul on the ground obviously. Had some crash landings which I learned a lot from. Landed with my bum on the top on the slope (controlled) and in a fence (not controled).

4. Venoe , 2h 🪂 PP

4 runs at Venoe with last run unsupported. Sideways winds. Crossed brake launch.

3. Toftum , 4h 🪂 PP

Ground control. Crossed brake launch in stronger wind. Hard work.

April 2010

2. Bovbjerg , 2h 🪂 🍒 PP

3 runs at Bovbjerg. Forward launch.

1. Toftum , 5h 🪂 PP

Ground control. Crossed brake launch technique.

March 2010

Gaustaspoekelse W4, 60ft ⛏ alt PW

Jomfrua W4, 60ft ⛏ alt TW PW

Unnamed W4, 60ft ⛏ alt TW PW

Kjoekkentrappa W4, 60ft ⛏ alt TW PW

Bullen W3, 60ft ⛏ 📸 lead PW TW

Anakje W3, 60ft ⛏ alt TW PW

Minidisken W4, 60ft ⛏ alt TW PW

Klassisk 4 W4, 60ft ⛏ alt TW PW

Skrueis W3, 60ft ⛏ alt TW PW

Aarsdagen W3, 60ft ⛏ alt TW PW

February 2010

Kitesnow Excercise , 1h 🏄 ⛵ solo

Ice kite , 1h 🏄 ⛵ 📸 solo

Mental. On skiis. Max speed 61km/h.

January 2010

Struer , 1h 🏄 ⛵ 🍒💯 solo

Snow kite - awesome

November 2009

Cold Hawaii , 2h 🏄 ⛵ 💪💯🍒 solo

At last I felt ready to go to the north sea. Amazing ride.

Klovvig , 2h 🏄 ⛵ 🍒 solo

Superb and brilliant flat water spot discovered

Ejsing , 1h 🏄 ⛵ 🍒 solo

Excellent afternoon session. Super cold and powerfull wind. Need warmer gloves.

October 2009

Wave session , 2h 🏄 ⛵ 🍒 solo

August 2009

Ejsing , 2h 🏄 ⛵ 🍒 solo

Excellent kitesurfing session

June 2009

Franska Trick f6b, 22m top

Traditionel HS, 22m lead

Climbed with Marco at Jean Gab's wedding.

May 2009

Ejsing , 2h 🏄 ⛵ solo

Quikcy , 1h 🏄 ⛵ solo

Off shore , 1h 🏄 ⛵ 💀 solo

In the search for pancake flat water I went out in pure off shore wind at a place where the water gets deep quickly and in really cold water (only just finished April). Eventually I fell over and could get the kite back up in time before the water was getting me really cold. I decided to quickly emergency release the kite (which wasn't trivial) and swim to shore. The kite took off on its own on the water. I drove to the nearest harbour and chartered a boat to go out and rescue the kite. Quite an epic afternoon.

April 2009

Lundoe , 1h 🏄 ⛵ solo

October 2008

Garden Valley , 10k 🚴 🚙 🍒💀 alt FW

ATV drive on the back trails of Idaho. Ended in a real epic with a crash and one of the ATVs going over the side of the mountain road and tumbled several hundreds of meters down the steep forested mountain side. Glad to be alive. We spent hours hoisting the atv back to the trail, totalled. Close call.

September 2008

Ejsing , 1h 🏄 ⛵ 🍒 solo

16m2 kite. Old school

March 2008

Suspension Bridge Arete HVS 5a, 110ft 🍒 lead MB

Despite a hangover I felt much more akin to the rock.

Suspense HVS 5a, 110ft 🍒 sec MB

Good lead from Martin.

Butterfly VS 4c, 25m alt MB

Freedom VS 4b 4c, 30m lead MB

polished and therefore quite difficult

The Split VS 5a, 30m alt MB

On permanent loan from Indian creek. I struggled.

African Killer Bee VS 4c, 30m 🍒 alt MB

Best route of the day. Friction was excellent

September 2007

Ejsing , 3h 🏄 ⛵ solo

Although the wind was fading, we had some good practice with the 12 and 16m2

August 2007

Ejsing , 1h 🏄 ⛵

Teaching Brice how to kitesurf

Ejsing , 1h 🏄 ⛵ solo

Kitesurfing course. Essential.

January 2007

Leaning Buttress Direct HVS, 5b 20m 🍒 lead RS MB

April 2006

Mumkin E1 5c, 600m 🍒📚Report alt AW

Trip report on willerup.com from an amazing trip to Jordan.

Sunkiss AD, 600m 🍒 alt AW

Ocean Slabs AD, 600m 🍒💯 alt AW

Rijm Assaf E2 6a, 600m 🍒 alt AW

Merlin's Wand E2 6a, 600m 🍒 alt AW

Storm in the Desert E2 6a, 600m 🍒 alt AW

February 2006

Pisse Froide W4, 150m ⛏ 🍒📸 lead TW PW

Great route climbed with my best friends

November 2005

Agen Allwedd , 11h 🪖 🍒 TW MB

Excellent digging trip to dig 9. Also saw the Corkscrew Chamber which was found the day before.

June 2005

Originalruten S, 30m 🍒 lead MB

A long held desire to show KU to Martin is realised. Climbed on a borrowed rack from Fred and Martin using a sling as a harness. Good climb squeezed in betimeen social engagements. Very kind of Martin to give the climb three stars.

March 2005

No Musketeers HVS 4c, 30m 🍒 sec MB

All For One... HVS 5a, 25m 🍒 sec MB

After the cave spankotronic on Saturday I was struggling on everything. The drive to Gatwick afterwards was desperate.

Agen Allwedd , 14h 🪖 🍒 MB RS

13 hours spankotronic. With John Stevens

February 2005

Bitihorn , 🏂 👟 🌤📚Report FW, AN

Winter ascent of the main feature of Beitostoelen

November 2004

Agen Allwedd , 8h 🪖 🍒 MB

A visit to the digface in Grolsch Passage. Managed to make about 2 meters progress removing 22 trays of spoil. The whole passage is really impressive.

June 2004

Sealand Round , 🏄 ⛵ 🍒🌬🌘📚Report AN UH FW

May 2004

Bitter Battle Tears HVS 5a, 25m 🍒 lead MB

Treason E1 5b, 24m lead MB

Not much gear

The Spanish Inquisition E1 5a, 19m lead MB

Agen Allwedd , 11h 🪖 🍒 RS MB

Continuing the dig. Excellent burly trip. I enjoyed being at the sharp end much more this time. We've hit a boulder section.

Suspension Bridge Arete HVS 5a, 110ft 📸 sec RS MB

Did a festive speed ascent as the second.

Baby Duck E1 5b, 36m 🍒 lead MB RS

I got pumped. Excellent sustained route.

Big Fly Direct E1 5a 5a 5a, 57m alt TW PW

Fine route. Fine evening. Made the pub.

Agen Allwedd , 12h 🪖 🍒 MB

Digging trip towards Daren. Excellent team effort hard work but good fun. Digging is not for the claustrophic amongst us.

Gundabad E1 5b, 21m lead MB

Lovely route. Climbed 30 mins after arrival at Bristol Airport. Every airport should have a crag.

March 2004

Maskhill Mine , 7h 🪖 🍒💀 TW RS MB

Brilliant rig. World class. The subsequent connection was an ultra burly bit of caving. I was particularly traumatised by the gravel-stream squeeze that nearly caught me on the return. Next time I will remember to turn my head the right way. Good effort from Martin leading this bit and not drowning while reversing in the sump. Double black helmet.

January 2004

Ogof y Daren Cilau , 22h 🪖 🍒📚Report RS MB AW FW

Highlights: sucessfull use of heyphone wading through bonzai streamway pushing to Aquenos Choke. Exit series felt hard.

November 2003

Bonbogies HVS 5a, 110ft 🍒 lead MB

Lovely climb. Make sure you don't do the direct as the traversing has some excellent moves in it. Ticked just before my plane left back to Copenhagen. Thanks Martin.

The Lich HVS 5a, 27m 🍒 lead MB

Excellent. Just excellent. I love AV.

Ogof y Daren Cilau , 45h 🪖 🍒 RS MB

Two-nighter into Dweebland (the end of the cave so far). Excellent trip. Flawlessly executed. We let off two smoke bombs (one failed) at the end to see if there's a draught towards Aggen Allwed. There is. Get your crowbars out!

Nibelheim VS 4b 4a 4c 4b, 90m alt SF

Joe's Route VS 4a 4c, 48m lead SF

Worthwhile VS just right of the main North Wall

August 2003

Flopp V, 15m 🎬Video lead JR FW AN TR HW

Another fun weekend of mixed climbing and scuba diving.

Handjam IV, 18m Excellent jamming route. lead JR

Aakersberget , 15m 🤿 🍒🎬Video JR FW AN TR HW

Tyskeruten V+, 22m 🍒 Jesper did well in following. lead JR

Den hoeje travers III+, 50m lead JR

Den hoeje travers III+, 50m lead HW

Great weekend of climbing bbq'ing picnic'ing and scubadiving! We brought *all* the gear to the crags + kids.

Den Rode Platte IV, 14m lead AN

Anton's first climb. He was so keen on more that instead of walking of from the stance we mountaineered our wayh to the summit climbing a few other routes on the way up.

July 2003

Aiguille Dibona f6c, 1000ft 🔩💯🍒📸 alt RS AW

Excellent little expedition efficiently executed by our three-person's team.

June 2003

Sealand Round , 🏄 ⛵ 🥀💀🔥💯📚Report AN UH FW

Zelda HS 4b 4b, 54m 🍒 alt PW

Finished up this with our rucksacks. Top route of its grade.

Never Say Die E2 5b 5b 5c 5a, 78m alt PW

Great second pitch.

Papillon E2 5b, 25m sec TW

Didn't feel that easy on the blunt end. Great exposure.

Never Say Goodbye E2 5c, 25m 🍒 lead TW

Great start to the weekend. Top route. Good to be back.

Dyt IV, 18m lead CW

Originalruten V, 30m 🍒 lead CW

Incredible rute up the exposed arete of one of the most impressive walls on KU. It was quite wet in the bottom requiring a bit of mad going for it in the start which unfortunately turned Celine of the idea of climbing it this time.

May 2003

Svenskeruten V-, 18m 🍒 lead CW

Toebrud III, 20m lead CW

Great rute at the grade

Ventetiden IV, 20m lead CW

Celine's first go at traditional climbing.

Kapillar V- (5+), 18m 🍒🌤 lead CW

Brilliant start to a weekend of Swedish rock sea and sun

Papillon V, 22m lead FW

I had done this before. A great route an easier version of its neighbor Flagermusen equally interesting.

Flagermusen V+, 22m 🍒 lead FW

Superb route great exposure and a finish requirering careful thinking.

Tyskeruten V+, 22m 🍒 lead FW

Lovely route

Den hoeje travers III+, 50m lead FW

I love this route. It is easy but it is a real little adventure. Great positions.

Pentymal/Daffy jam V, 12m lead FW

A classic of this section. Nice crag climbing.

Frigg 4, 10m sec FW

Fine crag climbing. Fred lost his camelot 2.

Freja 4, 8m lead FW

In celebration of Seans newborn daughter called Freja Fred and I climbed the crag of this little baby.

February 2003

Pylone Right W3, 70m ⛏ lead PW TW

Managed to squeeze an ice climb out of a visiting German friend. We didn't do much but it was worth it.

La Colere du Ciel W3, 1000ft ⛏ 🍒 alt TW PW

Excellent route. Super festive glissade down to the valley afterwards.

Symphonie d'automne W4, 120m ⛏ 💯📸 alt TW PW

The classic of the crag. Excellent snowblade descent afterwards.

Stalactus W4, 50m ⛏ alt TW PW

January 2003

Caturgeas W5, 600m ⛏ 🔥💯🍒💪 sec SF

600 meters of pure ice! We ticked all of it although it took us 15 hours! (and then 3 hours to get down). Quite a day out.

Chizarton W3, 20m ⛏ lead JA

Initiation ice climb for James. He did very well. The finishing top is quite unpleasant.

December 2002

Ogof y Daren Cilau , 32h 🪖 🍒 TW MB RS PW

Trip to the restaurant of the end of the universe

July 2002

La Demande f5c, 100m 🥀💯 alt FW

Fred and I tried our luck with this 11 pitch classic. Eventually backed off due to approaching storm and lacking yoor. Quite good we did. A little epic.

Vue de Cezanne f5a, 10m 🍼 lead FW

Spotted a potential cave at the bottom. Will require digging.

Bernard f5b, 10m 🍼 sec FW

Claude f5b, 10m 🍼 lead FW

Nice little number. The finishing move is a bit gnarly.

Plika Fibreuse f5c, 20m 🔩 lead FW

Scialet de la Chique , 3h 🪖 FW

Fred's first rig in the Vercors unmedium. The pendulum was as festive as ever and worth noting is that we managed to get up that climb in the end (fairly committing) taking us all the way to the bottom.

Mort Subite f6b, 10m 🔩📸 lead RI

I love this litttle route.

La Mule f6a, 12m 🔩 sec

Lovely little pump

Au dela de la Verticale f6c, 25m 🔩 sec

Went free this time but self toproped because of lack of commited partners. This is definitely the route of the crag.

Au dela de la Verticale f6c, 25m 🤸🔩 sec AM

Al took a nasty lob on the top crux. I topped out afterwards using Al's ropes from his attempt. That route will go free next time.

La Mule f6a, 12m 🤸🔩 sec AM

Good effort from visiting Ahut member Al I had to bail out on the crux pumped out.

Mort Subite f6b, 10m 🔩 lead AM

Great little pumpy number. Super pockets.

Belle de Jour f5+, 8m 🔩 sec AM

Apres de mon Abre f4c, 30m 🔩 sec CW

I let Celine lead this one and got while she was at the top out of view, I got undressed to climb it nude and to arrive nude at the stance - for festive purposes.

La Vie Eternelle f6c, 30m 🔩 lead- CW

Excellent place this Ardeche. Finally had a go on something a bit harder and although I had to rest on the rope three times I was quite pleased with the tick.

Hang on f6a, 30m 🔩🍒 lead cw

Celine f5+, 15m 🔩 lead CW

The neighbourgh route to Mathias - is called Celine. Nice and tricky little number.

Mathias f5, 15m 🔩 lead CW

Great little route with the same name as me! Superb position overlooking GR Vercors and The Alps. Great evening crag.

June 2002

Tac (Gauche) f6a+, 27m 🔩 lead CW

Great line up the main face. Atmospheric crag with a lot of potential.

Assurance Tous Risque f5a, 21m 🔩 lead CW

Cacaboum f4c, 20m 🔩 sec CW

Neuleu f6a, 30m 🔩 lead CW

Vasidoux f4c, 20m 🔩 lead CW

Acrobuis f5a, 30m 🔩 lead CW

Scialet de la Chique , 3h 🪖 MB

Excellent cave - easy in all respects (rig and walkin). Martin regained his unfire with a steady lead to the bottom. All bolts overtightened subtracts a star good photoshooting and muddy fun adds it back.

Scialet du Pot de Loup , 3h 🪖 🧭Topo PW

Nice trip with Paul which regained his interest in caving. A great easy cave.

Scialet du Pot 2 , 1h 🪖 🍒🥀 MB TW

The Pot 2 attempt - Grosvenor style. Martin lead down to -80 meters. To be continued.

Scialet de Malaterre , 1h 🪖 🧭Topo MB PW TW

Tried out my new caving radios which works extremely well on these long vertical pitches.

Scialet A2 , 5h 🪖 🍒📸🧭Topo MB

Full on caving. Included a dangerous 25 meter pitch lead in Wellingtons with only a sling and my bolt kit (thank god for that) as protection. Fantastic cave - highly recommendable.

Les Grandes Mulets f5b, 10m 🔩 lead CW

Tango pour un Viking f6c, 8m 🔩 lead

Vision dans les Spasmes f6b, 30m 🔩🍒 lead CW

Excellent route with an ultra long reach mid way

May 2002

Tu Rame f6b, 10m 🔩 lead CW

Quick evening tick. Pleased I am getting used the sports medium at last.

Zim Dime f5c, 10m 🔩 lead CW

Scialet de Malaterre , 4h 🪖 🧭Topo JA

Great initiation trip for the new speleo recruit. Messed up the logistics by forgetting one descender at the training wall back in the hut. We managed nevertheless and bottomed out the main shaft in style. Good effort from James it being his first real vertical cave.

Ad Hoc f5+, 10m 🔩 lead CW

Stardust f6a, 20m 🔩 lead CW

I like this area - the rock somewhat resembles that of AV. Good evening venue.

Crysalide f4+, 20m 🔩 lead CW

N.R.J. f5+, 20m 🔩 lead CW

April 2002

Peaceful Warrior 5.7, 15m 🔩🎬Video lead JB

Check out the video from the weekend.

Chosmaster 5.7, 30m 🔩 🎬Video lead JB

Boschido 5.10c, 30m 🔩🍒 lead JB

The route of the crag. Superbly natural line weaving it's way up this huge exposed basalt pillar. The locals were impressed by the onsight tick. I was well pleased. Sustained.

Desert Shield Right 5.8, 15m 🔩 lead JB

Hardening of the Artery 5.10c, 10m 🔩 lead JB

Short pump fest

Desert Shield 5.10a, 15m 🔩🍒 lead JB

VT Point 5.8, 25m 🔩🍒 lead JB

Great position up an exposed arete.

Clip em or Skip em 5.7, 20m 🔩 lead JB

Whipsaw 5.7, 20m 🔩 lead JB

Ride em Cowboy 5.9, 30m 🔩🍒 lead

Superb route up the arete of one of the endless basalt columns

Dance of the Sharman 5.10b, 15m 🔩 lead JB

Nice moves

Dawn Cyote 5.8, 15m 🔩 lead JB

Wet in the top.

La Directe des Gupes f6a, 90m 🔩🍒 lead CW

Superb route. Three sustained pitches takes you to the summit of this excellent place.

March 2002

Le Gastronome f5+, 50m 🔩 lead CW

After yesterdays epic we only did one pitch of this fairly bolt spaced out classic.

Vois de Trou f5+, 110m 🔩 lead CW

Excellent little expedition. Got the to summit just as the sun disappeared on the horizon. Three long abseils in complete darkness saw us down eventually. Good effort from Celine who had only abseiled once before.

Abolition f5b, 20m 🔩 lead CW

Humanismous f5b, 30m 🔩 lead CW

Glaciere d'Autrans , 4h 🪖 🍒🧭Topo MB

Desperate. Approach was as hard as ever and the amount of ice in the cave was worrying, although on the same time ultra festive. Martin fired up an inspirational ice-stal-chopping session as we were stopped but an almost complete blockage of ice in the entrace tunnel. Reaching a depth of approximately 100 meters we eventually decided that this was a black helmet danger zone. Huge television sized blocks of broken off ice was scattered around the shaft, and after a quick statistic calculation on when the next bit of ice could be coming down, we decided to blow retreat horn and hurried out after exhaustive cold caving session.

Scialet des Joufflus , 4h 🪖 🧭Topo MB

Excellent job to the bottom. The route finding to the last pitch is a bit tricky until you realize you have to gnarl your way through a hole in the roof (upwards) with the festive aid of a spit/stal sling. The squeeze to the beginning of the last pitch is not as bad as it looks - go in feet first and you can stand up half way (not imidiately obvious). Yoor!

Niou-Niou f6a, 20m 🔩 lead AW

Interlude f5+/6a, 20m 🔩 sec AW

Scandal f5, 10m 🔩 sec AW

Part of the attempt trying to get up to Annundo.

Power f7a, 20m 🤸🔩 sec- AW

The guidebook is wrong in this sector and I ended up fighting a hard battle against this 7a thing. Got to the top after two rests.

On or In f6b, 20m 🔩🍒 sec AW

Fantastic crack climbing. Good lead from Andrew.

Panama f6a, 20m 🔩🍒 lead AW

Tricky start. Good jamming and laybacking all the way.

Transit f6a, 20m 🔩 sec AW

Aigi de Midi South Face f6c, 600m 🥀 🎬Video alt PW

Scialet des Joufflus , 3h 🪖 🧭Topo AW

Really easy when you've already done it once (but not all the way to the deck). The approach was definitely the crux walking in thigh/waist deep snow to the cave. A festive day. Good effort from Andrew who hadn't caved for 10 years and was srt'ing on a rather made up and minimal rack.

February 2002

Ogof y Daren Cilau , 28h 🪖 🍒🍒📚Report MB RS TW JT

Long trip with an overnight camp in the Hard Rock Cafe. The further speed trip to The Microns was a seriously burly piece of work. Good effort from Martin doing the car shuttle on foot both ways and for the amble lager refreshments in the Hard Rock Cafe and Royston for the very inspirering bit of cave leading in the Rock Steady Cruise.

Grotte de Bournilllon , 2h 🪖

Went up to have a look. Couldn't resist. Went in. Normal way too wet so I opted for the highlevel dry fossil way which was much longer than I expected and with some pretty nasty (but polished and obvious) squezes. Good training but cave soloing doesn't feel very clever.

January 2002

Chizarton W3, 20m ⛏ lead CW

Lots of fresh snow made the ice climbing less pure. Still a good initiation climb for Celine who did very well.

Version Originale W3, 25m ⛏ sec PE

Climbed with Pete from the internet. Meeting him was a fun story. Hooked up prior to Facebook and all that - internet was more a forum for nerds (like me). We met at a bar in BourgdOissan and Pete was a travelling ice climber just like I was at my trips to Chamonix before I moved to Grenoble. So he was carrying _all_ his gear and was fairly random in general. After we had climbed he kept sticking to me and came to my flat at Valentines day walking up the stairs in ski boots. As I was courtisating Celine at the time (we had just met) I was a bit in a dilemma inviting him in. The dilemma was a lot of fun.

Sans Issue W5, 50m ⛏ 🍒 lead PE

Excellent route visible from the valley below. I found this dude who was keen to climb and it worked out nicely.

Le Voile du Chizarton W4, 30m ⛏ 🍒 top

Self toproped because I'm such a sad lonely git down here in France. Excellent stuff though - did it four times for some proper forearm training. Selftoproping worked really well with the Petzl Traction. Ice conditions are *superb* this year.

December 2001

Trou du Diable , 1h 🪖 🧭Topo CW

Solo with Celine at ground support (making tea).

Gaping Gill , 3h 🪖 🍒🔥💯📚Report TW MB RS

Lateral Shaft. Superb rig avoiding most of the water of the main shaft. Mindblowing

Gaping Gill , 3h 🪖 🍒💀🧭Topo TW MB RS JT

Main Shaft. Wild decent. Although the water level was low we ended up right in the end waterfall which is serious stuff and very scary but excellent adrenalin fun at the same time. The tick is home!

Rowten Pot , 3h 🪖 TW RS MB

Excellent sporty rig.

November 2001

Ogof y Daren Cilau , 7h 🪖 MB RS

Fantastic trip. Made it to the Bonsai Streamway and back.

Ogof Ffynnon Ddu , 6h 🪖 MB RS

A job needed to be finished. We wanted to finish yesterdays objective of getting to Smiths Armery but the area was in flood now and we made it past the traverses into OFD3 and reached the roaring streamway which was fantastic to watch but a certain deathtrap to enter. Great trip

Ogof Ffynnon Ddu , 6h 🪖 📚Report DG RS MB TB

We did an unplanned round trip due to some tricky navigation in the Shambles. On one of the many tricky climbs Tom lobbed of and fell around three meters but luckily landed on his feet and not on one of the sharp boulders. He sprained his angle badly and we abandoned the trip and got out safely.

October 2001

Domi Creation f6b, 90m 🔩📸 lead DS

Not a stylish ascent.

Bon Interlude f5+, 100m 🔩🥀 lead RI

Great to be out in Presles. Big route at 280m. We only did the two first pitches.

Grotte Gournier , 1h 🪖 JR

Jesper's first caving experience. Another team was already in there which unfortunately took the edge of the scaryness factor and it was really plain sailing. Still enjoyable.

September 2001

Grotte Gournier , 4h 🪖 WW

As festive as caving gets. This huge and relatively easy cave is guarded by a big lake which we crossed in my new rubber dinghy. Seriously festive approach. Followed by a 6 meter steep climb directly from the mooring spot and then a 30 meter high leve traverse with some fairly serious exposure. Great cave.

Scialet de Pot de Loup , 4h 🪖 DS

Good SRT initiation trip for David. We went down the 40 meter pitch and then up again. Got through most of the SRT curriculum including a helping hand from above once or twice. It was raining heavily the whole day but the cave stayed dry.

June 2001

Trou de Glaz , 1h 🪖 DS

Went back for a further exploration. Annabel announced her disgust of the un-rock but David is keen on more. This cave is massive. Over 50 kilometers of known passageway with numerous through trips under Dent de Crolles. The mountain is basically completely hollow and will be the focus of activity in the near future. As with all Grenoblois speleoaction it requires a fully equipped SRT team to explore.

May 2001

Trou de Glaz , 20m 🪖 MB CW

Walked up the Dent de Crolles. Nipped in to a huge cavity with our c-rack. Massive draft coming out of the cave. Will be back for further exploration.

Scialet de Pot de Loup , 3h 🪖 🧭Topo MB

Absolutely superb SRT trip. Beautiful lines and an amazing 40m drop from an overhanging speleothem. Easy and highly recommendable. Approach - 8 seconds from the car.

Glaciere d'Autrans , 9h 🪖 🍒🎬Video MB

Long day out. 13 hours including the walk. We got back to Grenoble at 4am in the morning.

Trou de Diable , 1h 🪖 🧭Topo MB

Beautiful walk-in - quite long. Descended amazing looking shaft (140 meters straight!). 10 meter down bolt ripped. Mission aborted. Glad to be alive.

Chamonix , 🏂 👟 🌤 solo

Got the randonee skis out and revisited the Grande Jorasse basin where Fred and I had been 7 years ago. Went up to Refuge Lascaux (2450m) and headed back. Brilliant trip. 6 hours

Transit f6a, 20m 🔩📸 lead RI

Excellent day out in this superb crag. The rucksack were full - but where in in England it would be full of climbing gear - here in France mine was full of flute watermelon cheese and pate. :-)

N.R.J. f5+, 20m 🔩🍒 lead RI

Nose Dik f5, 20m 🔩 lead

Crysalide f4+, 20m 🔩 lead

Micro-Fissures f5+, 20m 🔩🍼 lead RI

Quite a hard start for the grade. Unless you do as most French people - pull the quickdraw.

Noname3 f6a+, 30m 🔩🍒 lead DS

A bit dangerous at the bottom because of loose rocks from parties on the area above.

Noname2 f6a+, 30m 🔩🍒 lead DS

Excellent stufff. Brilliant crag very close to GR. A bit like GC in character.

Noname1 f6a, 30m 🔩 lead DS

April 2001

La Grave , 🏂 👟 🌤 solo

Definitely the last run of the season. Lovely day, lots of sunshine but quite desperate snow conditions. I was almost caught in the biggest avalanche I have ever seen - I was completely alone on the whole Vallon side just catching my breath right under La Meije. I hear a crraaaackk, look up and boy oh boy oh boy, the whole serac fall is coming down. Absolutely mind-blowing to watch. It was just getting bigger and bigger in classic avalanche style - you know, developing this huge cloud of snow thundering down toward the valley floor right where I was standing. I waited a few second admiring the spectacle and then I was okay, that actually looks like a bad job and I started the engines and got further away while I could. I stopped some 500 meters further down and looked up again. Like some big disgusting animal the avalanche ate its way down the face and 30 seconds or so later engulfed the place where I had been in cloud and debris. Eventually it reached where I now was but was now a mere wind of snow. Absolutely fantastic to see. All other stuff was very avalanchy as well, but nothing as major as that baby. If only I'd brought my camera. I switched to my skiis midday but changed back to the gun after one desperate run.

La Grave , 🏂 👟 solo

Brilliant day. Worked on trying to jump the big serac thing on the left of the drag lift in the top. It's a massive drop and the landing is not very steep so you really gotta go for it all the way. I was there a couple of times but didn't do it. Even Tigers has limits. :-) - I successfully did my usual cliff jump on the left of the telepherique which is always amazingly adreanline pumpy.

La Grave , 🏂 👟 solo

Woke up. Looked at the webcam. Looked good. Headed off. Scrounged my way to a free lift ride. Conditions was pretty desperate actually. Fresh snow but very cold and the base was rock solid (not good for the big air landings). Also the avalance risk was quite obvious very high and I was glad to reach the bottom in one piece

Scialet des Joufflus , 3h 🪖 🧭Topo MB

Beautiful cave - lots of little lakes and excellent formations. Perfect rig as well.

Stardust f6a, 20m 🔩 sec MB

Shirpa f6a, 16m 🔩 sec MB

Nose Dik f5, 20m 🔩 sec MB

Niou-Niou f6a, 20m 🔩 sec MB

Nestea f6a, 17m 🔩 sec MB

N.R.J. f5+, 20m 🔩🍒 sec MB

Superb climbing. Undercling 4 meters up provides an easy pass of the crux.

Lubna f6a, 9m 🔩 sec MB

Interlude f6a, 20m 🔩 lead MB

Hyades f6b, 17m 🔩 lead MB

This was to be my last lead this day. Tried a 6b/c but took a whipper before the last clip. I was pumped stupid and getting exhausted after an intense week of caving and snowboarding.

La Grave , 🏂 👟 🍒 MB

Superb day. Excellent big air jumps and some really pumping carving. Absolutely shagged afterwards also partly because of heavy drinking at the previous night with Martin, Christian Holst and forty bottles of bottles of Christians vodka

La Grave , 🏂 👟 MB

Gnarled around a bit to figure out what the best descend would be with the access to P2 being unskiable. Perfect weather and only few people

Glaciere de Carri , 7h 🪖 🍒💀 MB

Desperate trip. Got back up to the surface at 12'o'clock at night after a long day in the darkness. Our friends in Grenoble was getting well worried and had started phoning the local police etc. Luckily they sensibly held back any rescue attempts as we were perfectly fine. Glaciere de Scary!

Scialet de Fee Anglaise , 4h 🪖 🧭Topo MB

Excellent cave ends in a big lake which goes of in the distance. Next time we'll bring a boat and explore further. This time we both put the double amount of clothes on and was relatively warm.

Scialet de Malaterre , 6h 🪖 🍒🧭Topo MB

Massive cave shaft - starts with a 120 meter (360ft) drop of a bridge - straight down in to the void. Desperate trip - quite wet and extremely cold.

Sherre Chevalier , 🏂 👟 SN

Plenty of untouched snow, but weather a bit unstable. Good fun

Derby de La Meije , 🏂 👟 💪💯🍒 solo

Yearly off piste race of festive proportions. Came in 84th in the my category - time 12m33s

March 2001

Cri de guerre f6b+, 30m 🔩 lead SW

Perfert Saturday afternoon in superb weather. Almost no people had most of the world class rock to ourselves.

La Voliere f5b, 30m 🔩 lead SW

On n'est pad des Betes f5c, 30m 🔩🍒 lead RI

Superb route! Layback and exposed back and footing in the chimney in the top.

Mocamba f5c, 20m 🔩 lead RI

First climb of the year and first climb in my new local crag. Excellent sports climbing.

Bastille VF, 200m 🔗 📚Report solo

Lunch time climb. With skateboard.

La Grave , 🏂 👟 DS

Steep aaaaand deep. Did my favourite left side (facing the mountain) exclusively. Lot of queing in the lift unfortunately

Alpe Duez , 🏂 👟 DS

Did some excellent cliff jumps. Visibility was poor but due to heavy snowfall

Courchevel , PD 🏂 👟 DS

Despite quite crazy conditions (fluffy snow, sun, fog, snowstorm, rain, slush - all in a day) we managed to get some good stuff done. Good jumps.

February 2001

Les Larmes du Chaos W4, 90m ⛏ 🍒 PW TW alt

Very atmospheric climb. Good bit of spin drift on the second pitch steep (85 degress) and quite remote.

La Grotte W3, ⛏ 🌤🍒 sec TW PW

Superb settings. Full sunshine perfect ice.

Pylone Left W4, 70m ⛏ 🍒 alt TW PW

Less ice than two weeks ago (more delicate) but colder (better ice).

La Grave , 🏂 👟 DS

David and Annabel joined me for the evening and we had a good day skiing/boarding. Still plenty of deep snow

La Grave , 🏂 👟 RG

It had snowed a lot the previous day and we arrived to a perfect morning. Perfect snow, lots of it, no people

La Grave , 🏂 👟 solo

Ice climbed Saturday and it then snowed 30cm during the night and Sunday was a real treat on the gun. Excellent cornice surfing on the Vallons side. I think I've found my favourite line in La Grave. If only the lift didn't close so early (4pm). I was the third one down the slope in the morning though!

Pylone Right W3, 70m ⛏ sec

First ice climb in LG. Excellent stuff.

January 2001

Chamonix , 🏂 👟

Still powder left from the day before and an excellent snowdepth, soft and perfect for trying some festive jumps.

Sept Laux , 🏂 👟 PD

It had snowed in the morning, and the bastards closed the top bit (avalance danger) so I was confined to the piste. :-(

Sept Laux , 🏂 👟 solo

First time in the local ski resort. Good potential

La Grave , 🏂 👟

Only fresh powder on the very top section - really good stuff. The lower parts was icy and tricky on the Powder Gun

La Grave , 🏂 👟 solo

Bought a Swell Panik Magistral board and had the most amazing day in La Grave. 10-20cm of fresh powder under clear blue sky.

Alpe Duez , 🏂 👟 ☔ RG

It changed from rain to snow mid day. We should have stayed one more day

Alpe Duez , 🏂 👟 PD RI RG

Highlight of the day was the lunch in the Marmotte Restaurant

December 2000

Alpe Duez , 🏂 👟 PD RI RG

Spend the New Year break in Alpe D'huez the closest big resort to my new home in Grenoble

Manor Farm Swallet , 4h 🪖 DG MB

I decided to postpone the UK underground retirement for one more trip - I couldn't say no to a trip down Manor Farm with DG and MB. I wasn't disappointed. Dave now goes under the nickname 'Mr. President' (president for the HPCC) and I had the great pleasure of pushing through some really dodgy loose bouldery bits in the far end which was rewarded with a huge chamber which almost certainly had some further continuation. Dave and Martin unfortunately didn't reach this glorious chamber as they reckoned the boulder bits were too unstable.

November 2000

Ogof y Daren Cilau , 6h 🪖 🍒 FW

Did it! RR went with us for 10 meters and then decided to back out after a worm attacked her in the entrance. We'd seriously misproportioned the whole cave - the entrance crawl and chambers beyond was much bigger than expected. We forgot the map which ment we couldn't make it further than the Great Chamber

Thrupe Lane Swallet , 4h 🪖 FW DG TW

Did the full through trip. A great evening out with TW and DG - possible the last for a long time now that Fred is going back to Denmark and Mathias is going bigger voids in Grenoble.

Caravanserai HVS 4c, 36m lead MB

Ate all my Camelots. Good jamming on the left wall.

Sugar Magnolia HVS 5a, 18m sec MB

Tydomin HVS 4c, 27m lead MB

Crimtyphon E2 5b, 30m 🍒 lead MB

Superb texture and excellent crimps.

Nibelheim VS 4b 4a 4c 4b, 90m alt MB

The Angel's Eye HVS 5b 4b 4b, 63m alt MB

Severely hungover I quickly sobered up leading the easy but exposed and sparsely protected second pitch. Classic route.

October 2000

La Cosita Left 5.9, 50m lead FW

Great route with everything. Looks imposible from below but is okay once you get commited. We wanted to do the amazing looking Sacherer Cracker afterwards went up the 5.7 Flaring crack and then it started to rain. Next time!

Pine Line 5.7, 50m lead FW

One pitch route right betimeen the Nose and Salathe - awesome setting.

Church Bowl Lieback 5.8, 50m 🍒 lead FW

Hidden gem. We climbed right next to Tom Frost (first ascensionist of El Cap) and called him a chicken. Truly festive guy.

Church Bowl Tree 5.10a, 20m 🍒 lead FW

Excellent crack line. Technical fingerstuff.

Nutcracker 5.8, 180m 🍒 lead FW

Incredible layback. We backed down after third pitch as it started to rain.

Central Rib Route 1 S - 4a - 4a, 66m lead LH

Wet muddy but still a good route.

Double Wye Valley 38K , 4h42m 🏂 👟 TW

Tim did a "Double Wye Valley run" today - I was climbing, but I thought this should be noted. Double! If the normal round wasn't hard enough, but doing it it twice - pfeww. Well done Tim.

Goatchurch Cavern , 2h 🪖 💀 RR LH

Brilliant trip. Laerke's first ever caving trip and she was so on for it that we decided to do the full Goaty - into the letterbox and back. It's f*cking scary in there - sort of smells of evil and it was a stupendious effort from the girls.

Fairy/Hillier's Cave , 4h 🪖 FW TR RR

The Rhoades sisters had an unsettled bill in the sump of this fine system. We went all the way through Cambridge Grotto to the Red Room. Good to be back. A photo from this trip was subsequently used in a caving instruction book.

Ogof y Daren Cilau , 2h 🪖 FW RR

Oh baby! This hole had been on the ticklist for quite some time and still is! We had to turn back approx 350 meters in through the 530m crawl that guards the cave. RR had some bad equipment and was freezing and we decided to go back before it would be too late. I have the feeling we will be back - soon.

September 2000

GB Cavern , 3h 🪖 FW RR DG TR

Fine trip. Dave pointed out a number of challenges which we should attempt soon.

Sidcot's Swallet , 2h 🪖 FW RR

We got as far as the 'very narrow tube' and despite Mathias' attempt of squeezing through in underpants only there was no way it would go. Good trip.

Central Butress HVS 5a 4c, 36m lead VM

Great Central Route HVS 5a 4b, 42m 🍒 lead VM

Excellent route. We finished of by rescueing two female muppets from Central Gully on the left.

Broken Bottle E1 5b 4c, 66m lead VM

Cheetah VS 5a 4c -, 81m lead VM

August 2000

King Kong 20m E1 5b 5a, 90m 🍒 alt TW

A very loose block now guards the start of this great route. More rock had fallen down since last year making the start much easier but more dangerous

Left Hand Route HS 4b 4a - -, 90m sec FW TR

Central Rib Route I S - 4a 4a, 66m 🍒 lead

My honourable colleague from Amazon.com was over for a day. Weather was good so we went climbing. Her first. Good job!

Bilbos Revenge HVS 5a, 18m lead TW

The Israel Blues E3 5c, 24m 🤸 sec TW

Tim lobbed of the crux.

Surrealist pitch 3 E1 5b, 25m 🍒 lead SL

Still very pumpy but much less scary the second time. Good effort from Steve.

Dragonfly HVS 5a 5a, 54m lead SL

July 2000

Syph S, 25m lead SF

Not a bad route

Jumping Carrots VS 4b, 24m lead SF

Reasonably exciting in big boots

Sleepwalk S 4a - - 4a, 63m alt SF

Training session for our Matterhorn trip later this month

Nightmare S - 4a -, 48m sec FW PH

Our Cousin from Denmarks first climb. Good job!

Quicksilber V-, 10m 🍒 lead UH

Excellent route. Superb rock big jugs on exposed ground. As festive as it gets

Oligmal V+, 10m lead UH

Mirakel VI, 10m lead UH

A critical midway hold was wet which made it quite difficult.

Franska Trick VII-, 15m 🔩💪🍒 lead UH

This route had been on my Swedish ticklist for a long time. I was well pleased

Tyskeruten V+, 22m lead UH

The rock was still wet in places. The weather was improving as the day went on.

June 2000

Petros VS 4c, 27m lead VM

Mike's Mistake E1 5b -, 51m lead VM

Banshee E2 5c, 15m lead TW

I almost screamed at the final crux move but pulled it through.

Beginnings E2 5c, 36m 🍒 lead TW

Superb route! Really sustained and varied climbing.

Padansac E1 5c, 27m lead MB

Fast Grip E2 5b, 36m sec MB

Deep Space S 4a, 6m lead MB

Beside the Seaside S 4a, 6m lead MB

Crack Dancer HVS 5b, 7m sec MB

Martin jammed like a savage. I laybacked.

Song Child VS 4c, 7m lead MB

Feather Light Slab E1 5b, 9m sec MB

Glamdring VS 4c, 24m lead TW

Tried Killer Ant (E26a) but this time the yoor seemed to be missing so we did this nice VS instead.

Girion Direct E2 5c, 15m sec TW

The Magpie E1 5a, 18m sec TW

The White Tower E4 6a/b, 18m 💪 lead TW

My first E4. I attemtped the route a week previously and fell off. Then I soloed it (self protected) the day before this attempt. Regardless of the climbing ethics it still (2010) is one of my most memorable routes perhaps because I had to wire it so clearly in my mind to get up it. Well proud to have reached this level through consistent climbing through the years.

Bifur VS 4b, 18m sec TW

The Gnome King HS 4b, 18m sec

Matterhorn TD, 4000m 📚Report SF FW UH

Successfull ascent.

May 2000

Bulging Flies E2 5a 5c, 30m lead RS

Royston pulled a block of in the start of the 2nd pitch.

Goatchurch Cavern , 2h 🪖 FW HW

Our sister Henriette went to Bristol to figure out why her brothers like caving. She didn't find the answer but found out she is definitely not desperate to get underground again. Instead we went on an epic trip on the narrowboat

Bath Narrowboat , 🏄 ⛵ 🍒☔💀🎖📚Report FW TR HW

Possibly the maddest trip ever. In a sport that if not often associated with adrenalinus maximus

Swatter HVS 5a 5a, 30m lead MB

Mosquito Bite E1 4c 5b, 110ft lead MB

Disaster Area HVS 5a, 15m lead TW

The Clockwork Fingercrack E1 5b, 18m sec TW

Bard The Bowman S 4a, 15m sec TW

I seconded a slightly different line - the E2 to the left.

Shagrat E2 5b, 21m lead TW

The Owl and The Antelope E2 5b, 26m 🍒 lead PW

Last route of the day. It was either this or another HVS. Having pushed the limit quite a bit already I wasn't quite sure that I wanted to lead the magnificiently positioned slab which looked completely unprotected from below. But we fired up the final bit of yoor and I went for it. An excellent route and the slab has *one* piece of perfect gear so that's plenty!

Let Me Know What Life is Like HVS 5b, 25m sec PW

Great route. Paul finally picked up the sharp end and he led the route in fine style. Plenty of pro (very unusual at Navigation Quarry)

Totally Relaxed f6c, 25m 🍼 lead PW

Due to our almost unprotected adventure we decided to try some bolt clipping. I had to pull on the quickdraw in the crux. Great route if you can climb that grade! Oh yeah we tried Western Front Direct first. That's E56b on bolts. Paul lowered me off from the impossible roof.

Fly Me To The Moon HVS 5a, 22m 💀🔥 lead PW

No gear from mid way. Had to pull up some commiting roofs of loose rock with 20 meters of unprotected air underneath me. Really f*cking scary.

Valley Forge E2 5c, 40m lead MB

Superb Saturday out in Wintours. Excellent routes which for me climaxed in this 135 foot hidden gem. Shame about the bolts left of the route which obscures the face a lot. Great hidden line though.

Clucthing at Straws E2 5c, 12m lead MB

Age of Enlightenment E1 5b, 24m sec MB

Childhood's End E2 5c, 21m lead MB

Broken Bottle E1 5b 4c, 66m lead MB

Aftermath VS 4c, 18m lead MB

Last Trump E1 5b 4c, 48m lead MB

Choker E1 5a 5a, 48m lead MB

Zombogies Direct E1 5b, 30m sec MB

Ffoeg's Folly E2 5a 5c, 42m lead TW RS

Cave Left VS 4b, 21m sec FW

M1 E1 5b, 36m 🍒 lead FW

Excellent route! Really sustained climbing on a brilliant line. Starts with technical bridging then exposed traversing and finishing up a steep pumpy overhanging wall.

Surrealist E1 5a 4b 5b 4b, 96m 🍒 lead FW

The Angel's Girdle VS 4b 4b 5a 4c, 108m lead FW

A Fly in the Eye? E3 5c, 27m 🍒 lead PW

Thought for a few feet I was doing an HVS but then I realised that it was harder. Turned out to be E3. Yoist.

Wurlitzer E1 4c 5c, 57m 🍒 lead PW

Intravenous Feeding VS 4c, 19m sec FW

Social Criticism E1 5b, 19m lead FW

Hydraulic Jump VS 4c, 18m sec FW

White Wall Direct VS 4b, 20m sec MB

We were still alive after five routes in this Llangattock place - it *had* to be celebrated on the Hope and Anchor back in Bristol which it did.

Edge of Time E1 5b, 110ft lead MB

Had the block I belayed from decided to let go while we were at it it would have been the end of it all. Great route.

Passage of Time E1 5b, 24m sec MB

Amazing fingercrack from bottom to top almost. I was getting cold and a little bit fed up after Martin had spent what seemed like two or three hours emptying his chalkbag on the 24 meters of rock. Note 2023: Paul attempted the route and backed out on Edge of Time. He called Edge of Time "Epic Territory".

Little Overhang HVS 5a, 570 💀 lead MB

Scary middle piece of loose shale above rp-gear lower down. Good character building stuff.

Apache HVS 5a, 18m sec MB

Stepped on a reasonably solid looking piece of rock which disappeared underneath my foot.

April 2000

Rebellion E1 5a, 18m sec MB

Fallacy HVS 5a, 21m lead MB

Cool Heat E2 5b, 21m lead MB

Excellent route. Quite a powerful start and the rest is reasonably bold with very spacious gear and almost complete dependency on the concretions (which Martin had just shown are not necessarily in-situ).

Complex Variable E1 5a, 18m sec MB

Martin knocked of a concreted foothold which nearly hit me. Luckily he stayed on.

Ironside's Men E2 5b, 18m lead MB

Treason E1 5b, 24m sec MB

The Spanish Inquisition E1 5a, 19m lead MB

Bursting the Renaissance Bubble HVS 5b, 19m sec MB

Bubble Memory HVS 5a, 19m lead MB

Exit and Chameleon VS 4c, 27m lead MB

Good top pitch but the middle part is seriously vegetaged - even comparing it to the other routes we did that day.

Flies Rise HVS 4b 5b, 30m lead MB

Bzzz Splat HVS 5a, 30m 💀 lead MB

Quite a little epical excursion - at least on the sharp end. It was f*cking loose in the start and I nearly came off which would have ment a certain splat. Thing did *not* get any easier in the top. It was good climbing but the top was desperate. Gear was good but the finishing ledge was full of munge and I eventually climbed off leftwards.

Flyte HVS 4c 5a, 30m lead MB

Malbogies Direct E1 5b 4c, 60m 🍒🦎 lead MB

Another excellent 'after work' tick. What a route! The direct start definitely places a stiff crux in the bottom which was negotiated with an amble amount of Yoor.

Big Fly Direct E1 5a 5a 5a, 57m lead MB

Excellent after work session. Although the last pitch was done in the dark we managed to get to the Rising Sun in time for a few beers. Met a few of the locals nice people.

Bull Pot , 4h 🪖 🍒 FW

A hidden gem. Excellent rig. The line is just pure beauty.

Hurnel Moss Pot , 6h 🪖 🍒 FW

Long walk. Long rig. Well worth it. FW rigged the hole thing.

Alum Pot , 2h 🪖 FW

Such an amazing hole in the ground. It was raining and there was quite a bit of water.

Eastwater Cavern , 4h 🪖 FW

Great little Saturday afternoon adventure. It was/had been raining a reasonable amount and there was a sizable stream entering the cave. We managed to do a nice round trip

Piton Route VS 4c 4a 4b, 60m lead MB

Bonbogies HVS 5a, 110ft lead MB

Daydream VS 5a, 24m sec MB

Petros VS 4c, 27m lead MB

Reveille VS 4c, 54m lead MB

Pegasus HS 4b, 55m 🦎 lead MB

Excelsior E1 5b, 60m 🍒🦎 lead MB

Paragon HVS 5a, 61m 🍒🦎 lead MB

Excellent route. Big jugs and great positions.

Detergent Wall HVS 4c, 45m 🦎 lead MB

Festive approach. The tide was coming in and we we negotiating some semisubmersed boulderhopping.

Great Western Arete HVS 5b, 73m 🤸🦎 lead MB

Strange grading - I lobbed on the 5a pitch which was really akward and hard.

South East Face Direct HVS 5a, 15m lead MB

Kittiwake HVS 5a, 48m lead MB

March 2000

Sunset Crack VS 4b, 10m sec TW

Tody's Wall HVS 5a, 18m lead TW

Heartless Hair E3 6a, lead TW

Cave Crack E2 5c, 11m 🤸 sec TW

Chequers Crack HVS 5b, 14m sec TW

Broken Crack VS 4c, 10m lead TW

Valkyrie HVS 5a, 20m lead TW

Aron's Wall VS 5b, 9m lead TW

L'Horla E1 5b, 10m sec TW

Bel Ami VS 4b, 18m lead TW

Predetor E2 5c, 16m sec TW

Owl's Arete VS 4c, 15m lead TW

Avalanche Wall HVS 5a, 12m sec TW

Dragonfly HVS 5a 5a, 54m 🍒📚Report lead MB

Chudleigh Overhang VS 5a 4c, 24m alt TW

Very dodgy second pitch. Pure munge.

Oesophegus E1 5b, 30m lead TW

Loot E1 5b, 24m sec TW

Twang HVS 5b, 21m lead TW

Thrupe Lane Swallet , 4h 🪖 FW TW

Excellent trip. Did a 'double' abseil simultaneously next to each other and swapped over in the bottom

Giant's Cave Butress VS 4c - 4c, 75m lead SF

Shatter Cave , 2h 🪖 FW TW DG

Very pretty cave in the Fairy Quarry. It's normally locked so you need an official guide for this stuff. Impressive formations

Zero Hour HVS 5b, 120ft lead MB

Hangover 77 E1 5b, 100ft sec MB

Bludgeon HVS 5a, 110ft 🍒 lead MB

Cool for Cats E1 5b, 120ft sec MB

The Loosener HVS 5a, 70ft sec MB

The Arrow E1 5b, 130ft sec MB

Front Line HVS 5a, 110ft lead MB

Piggy's Crack HVS 5b, 90ft sec MB

Clean Hand Blues Band E2 5b, 80ft sec MB

February 2000

Zelda HS 4a 4a, 140ft alt MB

The Prow (Whitt) VS 4c 4c, 130ft alt MB

The Druid VS 4c, 100ft sec MB

Exchange VS 4b, 100ft lead MB

Peacock VS 4b, 100ft sec MB

Offspring VS 4c, 100ft lead MB

Scooby Doo HVS 5a, 100ft sec MB

The Russian HVS 5a, 100ft lead MB

Red Rose Speedway HVS 5a, 100ft sec MB

Thrupe Lane Swallet , 4h 🪖 TW

We did the Latheral Aven pitch. But we missed our honoured caving mentor DG Grosvenor who unfortunately had other obligations this Friday evening

Molboloebet 10K , 1h12m 🏂 👟

Anders Soft ground. No frost. Lots of branches. Danish Orienteering. Great fun. 18 posts. At each post one had to answer a question which is then part of the score.

January 2000

Furesoeen Rundt 22K , 2h01m 🏂 👟 LK

Soft ground. No frost. Perfect. Excellent run. All systems were running fine.

La Grave , 🏂 👟 🍒 JR LK

A week to check out the powder in Chamonix and La Grave. Great trip together with the skiers Jesper Ritzau and Lars Klammer. No trip report. No photos. But we have a fully edited movie (9 MB!)

December 1999

Thrupe Lane Swallet , 4h 🪖 TW DG

The second big SRT trip after Rhino Rift to do in the MD. We did it in three pitches - excellent stuff. We will be back soon to do the big 200ft single pitch

Wye Valley 19K , 2h09m 🏂 👟 solo

Agony. I thought it would never go. If I want to get the sub2 again I need to rethink be current diet of beer and crisps. Still - I was going allright from the field to Tutshill, so I was quite pleased with the time.

November 1999

Fairy/Hillier's Cave , 3h 🪖 TW

A job needed to be done and TW and I went in to finish the Fairy Cave business. We reached the 'Red Room' which is in the connected Hilliers Cave and is the furtherst reach of the system. Quite an amazing system and very well worth it. Recommendable

Fairy Quarry Cave , 1h 🪖 MI

Not an ideal trip. I forgot to stock up on carbide and didn't have a lot of juice in the batteries. So we went in as far as the duck and probably partly because I was nervous about the lights Mikkel didn't fancy the duck and we blew retreat and went out. Shame because I would have liked to show Mikkel the Red Room.

Lionels Hole , 3h 🪖 🍒💯 FW

Awesome trip. We did the round trip which has some extremely challenging routefinding speically on the return. We were very pleased to get out

Sceptre VS 4b 4a 4a 4c, 260ft alt MB

Heart of the Sun E2 5b 5b 5a 4a, 320ft alt MB

GB Cavern , 4h 🪖 DG TW

Great evening out in the MD. GB has some really awesome formations and some quite entertaining squeezes

KIMM 37K , 11h45m 🏂 👟 FW

We came in 68 of 197 teams in the C class. 69 of these retired after the first day - 128 completed. (2.200m of ascent)

October 1999

Swildons Hole , 4h 🪖 FW

We were back to complete the round trip that we had attempted with Peter three entries down. This time the mud sump that we had rushed through was filled to the roof with water and after an hour or more of pumping water with no noticeable effect we went to explore the Black Hole Series instead. This ended when we arrived at a 40 foot pitch. Good day out. We were both exhausted

Wye Valley 19K , 2h25m 🏂 👟 solo

Tried to use ski poles. Disaster. It screwed up my rythm and I struggled all the way through! Ok, I hadn't really had any thing to eat, so I was quite low on energy, but - my ski pole theory has proven wrong.

September 1999

Rhino Rift , 2h 🪖 TW

We got a hold of the key yet again. Tim rigged and I de-rigged

Brecon Beacons 32K , 3h35m 🏂 👟 🍒☔ TW MB

Superb Half of it was fun. Half of it was a running mare. Absolute savagery. Constant horizontal rain all the way through.

Semi Wye Valley 10K , 🏂 👟 🌘 TW MB

Good training.

Fairy Quarry Cave , 3h 🪖 📸 FW DG

We went in with Dave Grosvenor on a good trip in to the wonders of Fairy Cave. A surprisingly muddy experience. Some good technical obstacles to keep the wriggling techniques uptodate. A Grosvenor Special.

Leviathan VS 4c, 75ft 🍒 lead MB

Climbers Club Direct HVS 5a 5a, 240ft 🍒 alt MB

Has to be the best HVS of the year. Superb climbing on fantastic rock.

Mucky Gully D, 230ft lead LS

Stand and Deliver E1 5b, 60ft sec MB

Ironside's Men E2 5b, 60ft lead MB

August 1999

Swallows Nest VS 4b 4b, 130ft alt SF

Freedom variation HVS 4b 5b, 120ft alt SF

Kelly's Overhang HVS 5b, 15m 🤸 lead- SF

Attempted and failed. Festive route.

Inaccessible Crack VS 4c, 18m lead SF

Twisting Crack S, 14m sec SF

Gunter VS 4c, 12m sec SF

High Neb Butress HVS 5a, 50ft lead SF

Tango Butress HS 5a, 12m sec SF

Hell Crack VS 4b, 13m sec SF

Step Ladder Crack VS 4c, 13m lead SF

The Styx HVS 45c, 13m lead SF

Amazon Crack S, 13m sec SF

Agony Crack HVS 5a, 11m lead SF

The Scoop HVS 5a, 15m lead SF

The Nose VS 4b, 10m lead SF

The Black Riders E1 5b, 80ft sec TW

Pharos S 4a, 90ft lead LS

Linsey's first outdoor climb.

Mithril E4 6a, 70ft 🤸 sec- JT TW

Joint led up in style. I popped off at the crux. Tim thirded it clean. Good route.

Goblin King E2 5c, 70ft sec JT TW

Jasper HVS 5a, 50ft ☔ lead PS FW TR

A wet experience. It was raining quite a lot but Peter wanted to climb rock so we went for it. I led it but grabbed Fred's abseil rope in the desperate wet top.

Swildons Hole , 4h 🪖 🍒 FW PS

An excellent trip! We went into the St. Poul Grotto Series which included some very low crawls and passing a mud sump. Peter did well in this -not- a beginners section of the cave. We didn't manage the through trip though since Peter started having more than enough. We didn't realize that this actually was our probably one and only chance of ticking this sought after Swildons collectors piece. Bummer!

July 1999

The Pygmies Got Stoned 5.10a, 100ft 🔩 sec MB

Tribal Boundaries 5.10a, 120ft 🍒🔩 lead MB

Excellent sport route.

Bloody Fingers 5.10a, 120ft 🍒 sec MB

Double Vision 5.10a, 100ft sec MB

Double Cracks 5.10a, 100ft sec MB

I started on this fantastic looking splitter but was lowered to the ground as the initial finger jam proved too much for my jamming skills.

Stan's Roof 5.10a, 100ft 🤸💀 sec- MB

Martin started our City of Rocks experience with a serious lead up to Stan's Roof. He commited himself to some marginal smearing and I can't remember having seen Martin so close to popping off as the roof didn't contain an obivous thank God Hold. Scary stuff. I on the other hand popped off in the roof section.

The Pansy 5.10a, 50ft 🔩 lead MB

Neon Leprechaun 5.10a, 50ft 🔩 lead MB

Temporary Insanity 5.9, 50ft sec MB

Unknown 5.10a, 50ft lead MB

Two Studs 5.8, 50ft lead MB

Shake Smear 5.9, 50ft sec MB

Citizens Against Spiders 5.9, 50ft lead MB

Basalt Somersault 5.9+, 50ft sec MB

The Doug Scott Route 5.9+, 50ft lead MB

Bullroar E1 5b, 80ft sec RS TW

Royston rested on the rope twice. Quite a strenous little number.

June 1999

Cotswold Race 18K , 1h33m 🏂 👟 🌤 solo

Complete torture. No problems in legs but the lungs and overall stamina was suffering seriously from the extreme heat. I came in 15th. It was not pleasant. Ridiculously hot (25+ degrees). Worst conditions I have ever run in.

Hell Gates HVS 4c 5a 4b, 250ft alt SW

I did the direct variation a year ago and I reckon that to be a much better line than this Ed Drummond zig zag. The direct line is much better protected.

Goblin King E2 5c, 70ft sec TW RS

Smaug the Dragon E2 5c, 70ft lead RS TW

Frigg VS 4b, 26m sec NE

Seth E1 5b, 36m lead NE

Errant E2 5c, 13m lead NE

South West Diedre HVS 5a, 33m lead NE

Arch Slab VS 4c, 24m lead FW

Joggled Wall Direct HS 4b, 18m sec FW

Scavenger VS 4b, 26m lead TR FW

East Ridge VD 4c, 73m solo

Elrond VS 4c, 70ft sec TW

Gundabad E1 5b, 70ft sec TW

Gondolin VS 4b, 70ft sec TW

Cotswold Leg 5 (recce) 18K , 1h52m 🏂 👟 TW

Calves killing me, otherwise the run was great. We were chased by a flock of cows at some stage.

Cotswold Leg 3 (recce) 16K , 2h24m 🏂 👟 LS

Got lost once. Picked up the track again after some skillful map reading.

Wye Valley 19K , 1h50m47s 🏂 👟 🍒💪 solo

Up until the top of Wyndcliffe my left calf was in absolute agony, but then it started loosening up after that. Boy was I glad when I ran across the bridge in Chepstow. New record for The Run which I am sure will not stand long

Howhard HVS 5b 4b, 240ft lead FW SW

Wye Valley 19K , 2h59m 🏂 👟 LS

We were supposed to have been 6 people going but the other potential participants seemed to have lost their attitude. Still, Linsey and I went and it was as always a fine Valley experience.

Wye Valley 19K , 2h05m 🏂 👟 TW

Perfect! The seasons first after work run. It looked like it was going to be a mean run, but after reaching the otter hole car park things seemed to just go really smoothly and no pain in the knees which is great.

May 1999

Swildons Hole , 4h 🪖 FW TW RR

Good Trip. Theresa and Rene both did Sump 1 in freezing cold water and in a very uninviting condition. Rene even managed to become a 'Son of The Mendips' as she fell into one of the pools twice.

Treebeard VS 4c, 70ft lead SW

Elrond VS 4c, 70ft sec SW

Earl of Perth E1 5b 5a, 200ft alt RS

The Lich HVS 5a, 90ft lead FW

The Corpse HVS 5a, 90ft sec FW

New Horizons II E2 5c, 60ft lead TW

Arms Race E4 5c, 60ft 🤸💪📚Report lead TW

My arms were like two wooden planks half way up. Loads of good pro which held several falls including a couple of pretty long whippers. Pulled it through in the end (with full use of the ringbolt). Will be going back again for a redpoint attempt.

Jasper HVS 5a, 80ft lead TW

April 1999

HP Extended Valley 12K , 0h54m 🏂 👟 TW

Beautiful. I have started running more frequently and on less savage terrain. All systems are working fine. No problems with knees or anything. So I guess I just need to go easy on the actual fell runs.

Eden Crack M, 150ft lead LK HL

Swildons Hole , 10m 🪖 LK HL

I took Lars and Helene down Swildons Hole for a grand caving trip. Unfortunately the mission was aborted shortly after entering the cave due to too much 'noia'

Goatchurch Cavern , 1h 🪖 LK HL

After the failed attempt in Swildons we went for the Goatchurch instead - objective: to go through the drainpipe. We got to it after some persuasion but that was as far as the party wanted to go. Drainpipe 2 - Lars Klammer 0

Gondolin VS 4b, 70ft lead FW

Necromancer HS 4b, 70ft sec FW TR

Pickpocket HVS 5a, 150ft lead MI

March 1999

Suspension Bridge Arete HVS 5a, 110ft sec FW

Limbo direct E1 5b 4b, 150ft alt FW

Viper crack VS 5a, 70ft lead FW JC

Excellent day out in Cheddar. Weather was perfect and we finished the day of with this little steep splitter. We gave a rope end to a chap passing us on bicycle from London on his way to Penzane.

Consolation E1 5a 5b, 150ft 🍒 alt FW

Good route! Really good route.

St. Cuthberts Swallet , 3h 🪖 FW DG TW

The yearly 'Insult DG' trip was as festive as ever. Sparrow treated us with several muddy squeezes and a good selection of pretty formations

King Kong E2 5c 5a 4a, 300ft 📚Report alt FW

The route has fallen down and we did the new King Kong. Serious stuff. *Very* sustained. I reckon it's E2.

Simpson's Pot , 3h 🪖 FW TW RS

Tried a 'canyoning rappel' technique for the abseils. Worked okay but figures of eights and doubling the rope is preferable

Manor Farm Swallet , 4h 🪖 DG

A bit of a project. Check out the Trip Note with a little drawing

Goatchurch Cavern , 2h 🪖 FW

We finally managed to get all the way in to the 'letterbox' - the furthest end of the classic cave. The letterbox is an extremely tight squeeze section very awkward specially on the return

February 1999

Furesoeen Rundt 18K , 1h45m 🏂 👟 LK

Changed to my old more bouncy shoes. I think it helped a bit on my knee, though it still hurt quite a lot. Specially afterwards. Good trip though - but less hilly than I had hoped. Denmark just is flat as a pancake.

Wye Valley 19K , 2h43m 🏂 👟

Right knee really painful. Maybe it is my beloved Walsh shoes which are a bit too hardcore after all.

January 1999

Damper 5.9, 15m 📸 sec MB

Western Saga 5.9, 40m 🍒 lead FW MB

Brilliant fist/layback crack with exciting roof. Read the Trip Report.

Fote Hog 5.6, 45m 🍒 sec FW MB

Brilliantly exposed and steep followed by finger crack and layback.

Wild Wind 5.9, 23m sec MB FW

Sail Away 5.8, 25m lead FW MB

Felt easier than some of the previous days - are we finally getting used to Josh rock?

Looney Tunes 5.9, 30m sec MB FW

Left Nixon Crack 5.9+, 7m sec MB

Nuts and Bolts 5.9, 50m 🍒🔩 sec MB FW

Left Nixon Crack 5.9+, 7m 🤸 lead- FW

Short steep splitter!

Buissonier 5.7d, 20m 🍒 lead FW

Very sustained layback flake.

Mike's Book 5.6 [2], 50m sec FW

Double Cross 5.7+, 25m 🍒 lead FW

SW Corner 5.6, 25m 🍒🔩 lead FW

Drawstring 5.7, 50m 🤸 lead FW

The newly purchased camalot 4 was essential for this route.

The Flake 5.8, 40m lead FW

A scary introduction to Josh rock.

Whalers Dues VS 4c, 25m 🤸 lead FW

Red Sling VS 4c, 25m sec FW

Interesting climbing on the "decomposing granite" well-protected fun.

Double Crack E1 5a 5a, 50m 🍒 alt FW

Page 99 E2 5b 5c, 50m 💯🍒🔥 lead FW

Very sustained jamming and somewhat run-out at the top. Scary. A perfect climb with everything... Check out page 99 of "Climbing Magazine" - that's the one.

Chameleon E1 5b, 50m 🍒 lead FW

Double Crack and Top Jam HVS 5b, 25m 🍒 sec FW

Double Crack VS 5a, 25m 🍒🌘 sec FW

We climbed the first pitch and it got dark. We left the gear in and will continue tomorrow.

Chimney HVS 5b, 50m 🍒 lead FW

Square Boulder 2 5.11a, 8m 🔩 top

Square Boulder 1 5.11a, 8m 🔩 lead FW

Front Face 5.10d, 30m 🔩 lead FW

Very thin moves on steep slab followed by a marginal dyno to clear an overhanging bulge.

Paradise 2 5.9, 20m 🔩 sec FW

Paradise 1 5.10, 20m 🔩 lead FW

Alumbrado Publico 5.9, 12m 🔩 sec FW

Rokkesten 5.10, 22m 🔩 lead FW

Primavera 5.9, 18m 🔩 sec FW

Danza del Poder 5.10b, 18m 🔩 lead FW

Chimney 5.8, 20m 🔩 sec FW

Capitan Garfio 5.10, 45m 🍒🔩 lead FW

Regalo Danese E1 5b, 20m 🍒🔥 lead FW

First Ascent!

Pinche Gripa 5.10a, 20m 🔩 sec FW

Siquiriqui 5.10d, 20m 🔩 lead FW

Versachi 5.10b, 20m 🔩 sec FW

La Bernalina 5.8 [6], 270m 🔩 alt FW

Chada Dominical 5.10a, 40m 🔩 lead FW

Symphonia de Ojas Secas 5.9, 25m 🍒🔥📚Report lead FW

Absolutely brilliant route with everything: technical jamming strength mantleshelf layback crack face etc...

Tennis 5.8, 25m 🍒 lead FW

Right of Nacnactang 5.10a, 25m lead FW

Crack 5.10b, 25m top

Nacnactang 5.10b, 25m 🔩 lead FW

La Proa 5.8, 30m 🍒 lead FW

December 1998

Cueva Miso Ha , 1h 🪖 FW TR

Mathias negotiated a tricky entrance to a cave with a waterfall coming out of it. Ended in some muddy dig business

Cueva Xtacumbilxun , 2h 🪖 FW TR

Some interesting exploration but we didn't go down the main shaft where it looked really interesting. No SRT kit. Very visited

Sea Travers V2, 40m FW

Taj Mahal Cenote , 15m 🤿 🔥🎖📸 FW

Tulum Pillar VS 4c, 12m 🍒🔥 solo

Great place. Superb rock rising from the beach. Very soft sand good for a potential fall.

Rio Frio Cave , 1h 🪖 FW

Huge short cave. Explored some galleries but no interesting passages

St. Herman's Cave , 2h 🪖 FW

Through-trip Big cave little technical side passages. Very visited

Poptun , 3h 🪖 FW

Big tube with mud and good formations second level round trip with somewhat technical climbing and crawling. Long. Very visited

Lanquin , 3h 🪖 FW

Big chambers bats spiders lake with potential river lots of potential side passages one easy squeeze. Total virgin experience. Only very few traces of humans. Unique. FW managed to catch the 'Bat Disease' or Histoplasmosis as it is apparently called - pretty nasty lasted for weeks but he survived. Only he nows sleeps hanging from the ceiling

Chop Chop Machette Galore HVS 5b, 100m 🍒📚Report alt FW

New route. Good experience. A festive climb.

Lanquin , 1h 🪖 🔥🎖 FW

Psycedelic praying with candles etc. reentry with smoke and strange sounds. Photos

November 1998

Gaping Ghyll , 4h 🪖 🍒 TW

Bar Pot. Possible my best caving trip so far. Interesting SRT'ing good deal of route finding and a long section of tunnels. All rewarded with the inconceivable main chamber of Gaping Ghyll. Photos

Alum Pot , 3h 🪖 🍒 TW

What a cave! Massive 60 meter free abseil down the amazing shaft

Notung E1 5a/b, 180ft 🍒 lead MB

Pig Iron E2 5b, 60ft lead MB

The Midas Touch HVS 5b, 80ft lead CH

Moonraker HVS 5a 4b 4c, 250ft 🍒 alt CH

October 1998

Reed's Pinnacle Direct 5.9 [2], 50m 🍒 sec MB

Fairview Dome 5.9 [11], 400m 💯🍒 alt MB

Regular Route. We videoed the ascent. Come around my boat if you want to see it.

Positively 4th Street 5.9 [5], 120m 🍒 alt MB

Brilliant laybacking jamming and underclinging. Thanks for the tip Royston.

Little John Left 5.8, 40m lead MB

Needle Spoon 5.10a [2], 60m 🍒🔩 sec MB

Ultra Technical slab. Martin at his best.

September 1998

Ogof Ffynnon Ddu , 4h 🪖 DG

Excellent through trip. Hard. Wet. Had to swim several times. Massive cave system

Goatchurch Cavern , 2h 🪖 KM PD

Katerina did the Drain pipe. Well done. Photo

Hunter's Hole , 2h 🪖 TW

Practicing SRT for our Gaping Ghyll project

Gaping Ghyll , 2h 🪖 🍒☔ TW

Dihetheral Way. Too wet too scary. We will be back. Photo

Sell Gill holes , 3h 🪖 TW

Wet Entrance. My first rig - brilliant stuff. See map . And here are a few good photos

Left Unconquerable E1 5a, 13m sec TW

Right Unconquerable HVS 5b, 13m lead TW

Certain Suprise E2 5b, 90ft 📚Report sec MB

Midnight Cowboy HVS 4c 5a/b 4b, 240ft 📚Report alt MB

Fools Rush In E1 4c 5b -, 420ft alt MB

Really technical traverse of the Baggy Point Promontory Slab. I was pretty close to not making it but eventually pulled it through.

Lost Horizons HVS 5a, 150ft lead MB

Terrapin E3 5b, 150ft 🍒📚Report sec MB

A bold lead by Martin Beale (his first E3 lead). Read his story in here.

August 1998

Rock Idol E1 5a/b, 140ft 🍒 lead TW

The Hole E1 5b, 120ft lead TW

Manzoku E1 5b, 120ft 🍒 sec TW

World War III Blues E1 5b, 65ft sec TW

Deep Space E2 5b 5a, 150ft 🍒💯 alt TW

The Strait Gate E2 5b, 150ft 🍒 sec TW

Brazen Butress Triple Direct E2 5b, 120ft lead TW

Desperately off route I climbed three routes in one.

Kraken E1 5a, 110ft lead TW

Hangover 77 E1 5a/b, 100ft sec TW

War Games E2 5b, 110ft lead TW

Depraved E1 5b, 120ft sec TW

Howling Gale E3 6a, 90ft lead TW

My first E36a. I had seen people climbing this a few weekends earlier so technically it is not and OSF.

First Blood E2 5c, 120ft 💯 sec TW

Hard warm up!

Venusberg VS 4a 4c 4b, 210ft alt TW

Thin Wall Special E1 5b 5a, 210ft 🍒 alt TW

Technical start. Exposed roof in the finish. Excellent route.

Doorpost HS 4a 4b 4a, 210ft alt TW

Firefly E2 4c 5c, 190ft alt TW

We climbed this Wintour's Leap classic in perfect conditions. Tim had a rare lack of confidence and I lowered him down from the midway stance. I was then left on my own on the ledge 25 meter above the ground waiting for Tim to throw down a rope from the top. This he did and I finished the route. Nice little Tuesday evening epic.

Red in the corner (indoor) 7a+, 12m 🔩🔥 lead TW

Although indoor climbing is not featured a lot on Willerup.com I thought it appropriate to log my first ever 7a flash. Yooor!

Rain Something E2 5c, 80ft sec TW MB

Eczema E2 5c, 80ft sec MB TW

The New Replublic HVS 5a, 90ft sec MB

War is Declared E1 5b, 90ft sec MB

One for All HS 4a, 100ft sec MB

Laughing Cavaliers HVS 5b, 90ft sec MB

No Musketeers Direct E1 5c, 90ft 🌘 sec MB

We camped at the bottom of Shorn Cliff and ticked four more routes the next morning before going to work at 9am. (Started climbing at 5:30am).

Bitter Battle Tears HVS 5b, 90ft 🌘 sec MB

All for One HVS 5a, 90ft 🌘 sec MB

Britomartis HVS 5a 4c, 190ft 🍒 alt TW

The Strand E2 5b 4c, 160ft 🍒 alt TW

Very dodgy second pitch - specially in the light of a guy plunging to the ground the day before. First pitch is excellent though!

Gogarth E1 4b 5a 4c 4b 5b, 360ft 🍒 alt RS TW

July 1998

A Dream of White Horses HVS 4c 4c 4c, 350ft 🍒 alt RS TW

We were passed by three young lads who where soloing the Dream. Good going! (Tim later found out that one of them was Leo Houlding - young English E8-climber!)

War of the Worlds VS 4c, 90ft sec MB

One For All S 4a, 100ft sec MB

SLMM 35K , 8h 🏂 👟 MB

Great conditions. Misty, wet and not too windy. Right knee hurting. After five hours I twist my ankle badly and we decide to retire and manage to arrive at the midway campsite after an additional 3 hours struggle. Read the full story.

June 1998

Loss of Innocence HVS 5b, 110ft lead RS

Easy Rider E1 5b, 105ft sec RS

Cotswold Relay 16K , 1h18m 🏂 👟 TW

Team 62 Ideal conditions. Muddy as hell and sun and showers during the run. Despite the fact that my shoes are crap it went okay. I came in 19th of 45 participants. Tim, who ran the leg as well came in 10th, three minuttes before me. Excellent fun. Right knee hurting quite a bit otherwise okay.

Cotswold Recce 16K , 🏂 👟 TW

Practice Run for the race on Saturday

Highway One E4 6a, 140ft 🍒📚Report sec TW

The Brink Of Solarity HVS 4c, 150ft lead TW

Wye Valley 19K , 2h18m 🏂 👟 TW CL

Worst ever: Hot. Humid. Muddy and slippery. I lead. Tim runs with Claire. Totally exhausted hardest run yet. No blisters. Picked up Claire in Tintern.

Treason E1 5a, 90ft lead RS DP

Laughing Cavaliers HVS 5b, 90ft sec RS DP

Sell Gill holes , 3h 🪖 TW

Dry Entrance. Good SRT practice. See map

Jingling Pot , 1h 🪖 TW

Main Shaft. 50m down. 50m up. 6 dead rabbits in the bottom. See map

Simpson's Pot , 4h 🪖 TW

Simpsons Pot to Kingsdale valley entrance. Excellent through trip featuring a spectacular 25m abseil. Photo

Clearwater Mine , 3h 🪖 DG TW

Ancient Iron Mine. Bow to the Ham

Suspension Bridge Arete HVS 5a, 110ft lead TW

Earl of Perth E1 5b 5a, 200ft alt TW

Suspense HVS 5a, 110ft sec TW

May 1998

Hangover 77 E1 5b, 100ft 🍒 lead VH

B-Team Butress E1 5b, 90ft sec VH

Aero VS 5a, 90ft lead VH

Whispering Wind E1 5b, 90ft lead VH

Rear Wind HVS 5a, 90ft sec VH

Cool for Cats E1 5b, 120ft 🍒 lead VH

Limbo VS 4c, 75ft sec VH

Manzoku E1 5b, 120ft lead VH

I had forgotten all my friends for this weekend so all the routes were done on a set of nuts. Quite okay actually.

Blue Sky VS 4b 4b, 180ft 🍒💯 alt WW

It was just such a great day. Had a wank at the stance out of sight of Will!

World War III Blues E1 5b, 65ft lead WW

Hercules HVS 5a, 110ft lead WW

Limbo VS 4c, 75ft lead WW

Stennis Pillar HVS 4c 4a, 130ft alt WW

Inner Space HVS 4b 4c 4c, 140ft 🍒 lead WW

Sea Groove VS 4b, 140ft lead WW

Flanker VS 4c, 130ft lead WW

Deranged E2 5b, 120ft 🍒🔥 lead WW

I must have felt pretty chuffed with my first E2 in the book.

Tactician HVS 5a, 110ft lead WW

Front Line HVS 5a, 110ft lead WW

Mecca E3 5c, 100ft 🤸 sec- TW

I rested on the rope. Tim took quite a whipper.

Trial HVS 5a, 100ft sec TW MB

Hell Gates Direct HVS 5a 5a 4b, 250ft 🍒 alt WW

Floating Voter VS 4b, 80ft lead RS

Jasper HVS 5a, 80ft lead RS

Butterfly VS 4c, 85ft alt TW

The Split VS 4b, 50ft lead TW

Swatter HVS 5a 5a, 100ft alt TW

Split Flies E2 5a 5c, 90ft alt TW

Freedom VS 4b 4c, 100ft alt TW

Side Effects E1 5b, 60ft 🍒 lead PW

Tigers don't Cry HVS 5b, 65ft 🍒 lead PW

Pothole Direct VS 5a, 10m sec TW

The Traditional Climb VS 4c, 10m lead TW

Great Western HVS 5a, 20m 🍒 lead TW

Frankland's Green Crack VS 4c, 20m sec TW

Congo Corner Direct HVS 5a, 20m lead TW

Dangler E2 5c, 20m sec- TW RS

Royston and I had to rest on the rope - very strenious stuff.

Eliminator HVS 5a, 20m lead TW RS

Flying Butress Direct E1 5b, 20m 🤸 sec TW RS

The Crucifix VS 4c, 160ft lead WW

Michelangelo VS 4c, 150ft lead WW

The Crucifix VS 4c, 160ft lead WW

Razzle Dazzle VS 4c, 150ft lead WW

The Gadfly VS 4c, 140ft lead JI WW

Bow-shaped Slap HS 4a, 140ft sec JI WW

Sea mist HS 4a, 90ft sec JI WW

Ocean passage VS 4c 4a, 150ft alt JI WW

Riders on the storm HVS 5a, 100ft 🍒 lead JI

Ouickstep VS 4b, 60ft lead JI WW

Highland fling VS 4b, 60ft sec JI WW

Cupids Bow HVS 5a, 130ft lead JI

I couldn't do the direct start and had to traverse in from the left.

The Arrow E1 5b, 130ft 💯 lead WW

Chieftain VS 4b, 80ft lead WW

Army Dreamers HVS 5a, 75ft lead WW

Bomb bay VS 4a, 60ft lead WW

Shell Shock VS 4c, 65ft lead WW

Sandbagged VS 4C, 70ft lead WW

Stacked Against VS 4b, 75ft 📚Report lead WW

April 1998

Organ Grinder HVS 5a, 55ft lead MB

Disturbed an Owl with - owlings?

Night Rider VS 4c, 100ft sec MB

One Less White Nigger HVS 4c, 100ft lead MB

Emotional Dyslexia HVS 5a, 90ft lead MB

Bursting the Renaissance Bubble HVS 5b, 65ft sec MB

Renaissance E1 5b, 65ft lead MB

Terrier's Tooth VD 4a, 130ft 📚Report alt MB

We were forced to climb this route in pretty extreme conditions.

Diocese VS 4c 5a 4b, 200ft 🍒 alt MB

Cornwall at its best

Bishop's Rib E1 5b 5a, 190ft alt MB

Flannel Avenue S 4b 4a, 185ft alt MB

Doorway Direct HVS 5a 4a, 190ft alt MB

Martin did the start - HARD

Ocre Slab I VS 4b 4c, 130ft alt MB

Interesting slab - windy and exposed

Anvil Chorus HVS 4b 4b 4c 4c, 190ft 💯🍒 alt MB

Superb layback

Doorpost HS 4a 4b, 210ft alt MB

Little Brown Jug Direct HVS 5a 5a, 200ft alt MB

All For One... HVS 5a, 85ft sec MB

After work climbing session. Pub afterwards.

Bitter Battle Tears HVS 5a, 85ft lead MB

March 1998

Swildons Hole , 2h 🪖 ☔ DG TW

Very wet conditions

Ven Camp , 🏄 ⛵ 🍒💀💪📸 JR FW

Wild trip in kayaks to Ven in the middle of winter. Done as part of preparing for the 1998 Raid Gauloises.

February 1998

Goatchurch Cavern , 3h 🪖 📚Report LK

The guys had visited me all the way from Denmark to see Bristol Rovers play against Oldham Saturday the 21th of February. Having arrived already Thursday night we were looking for something to do Friday. With Keld and Frede Firsttimer

January 1998

Central Gully W3, 200m ⛏ 🍒🔥📚Report alt TW

My first proper iceclimb. Good stuff although a bit thin and delicate at places. Released a huge rock which thundered down the gully which was packed with 4-5 other teams. Not good! Nobody got hurt luckily.

St. Cuthberts Swallet , 2h 🪖 DG

An extremely beautiful cave. With Andy Sparrow

Aconcagua TD, 6000m 🥀🌬💪📚Report SF FW

900 meters from the top.

Wye Valley 19K , 2h05m 🏂 👟 TW

After work run. I left the field after Devils Pulpit and was alone until the last road section near Chepstow. Fine conditions. Big bloody blister on left toe.

Wye Valley 19K , 2h18m 🏂 👟 TW

Muddy. Wet ground. Snow. Good. Good Run - very wet, otherwise good conditions. Snowed on the higher grounds. Blister

Wye Valley 19K , 2h 🏂 👟 TW

First time - twisted my ankle a bit

November 1997

Tulamben , 15m 🤿 FW

Tulamben , 30m 🤿 FW

Tulamben , 25m 🤿 FW

Tulamben , 32m 🤿 FW

Deep dive

Lovina Beach , 15m 🤿 🍒 FW

Night dive

Menjangan , 15m 🤿 HW

Menjangan , 18m 🤿 HW

Lovina Reef , 12m 🤿 HW

September 1997

Right Corner Alternative VS 4a 4c 4b, 200ft alt WW

Some dudes before us psyked out and we had to create a route directly upwards from our stance to get out of the place.

South Face Direct VS 4b 4c 4b 4a, 170ft 🍒 alt WW

Demo Route HS 4b 4b, 80ft alt WW

The Baldest E1 5b, 90ft sec TW

Pickpocket HVS 5a, 150ft lead TW

August 1997

Motion Pictures E1 5b, 70ft sec TW MB

State of Independence VS 4b, 60ft lead SW

Dinosaurs don't dino E2 5b, 60ft 🔩 lead TW

Pocket full of Cryptonite E1 5b, 60ft 🔩 lead TW

Beeline VS 4c, 50ft lead TW

Pooh Stick E1 5b, 60ft sec TW

Piton Route VS 4c 4a 4b, 120ft alt SF

June 1997

Daydream VS 5a, 80ft ☔ sec WW PD

It started pissing down while I was on the route which made the polished and slippery Avon Rock even more impossible to climb.

Church corner , 80ft sec WW PD

April 1997

The Firebird HVS 5a, 100ft sec TW

Cadillac VS 4c, 100ft lead TW

Questor VS 4c, 110ft lead TW

Suncrush HVS 5a/b , 110ft sec TW

March 1997

Swildons Hole , 2h 🪖 JL

Jakob did the sump 1 of Swildons. On sight. Photos

January 1997

Col de Palet , 4h 🏂 👟 💀 solo

Did the Col de Palet to Champagny run (alone!). A bit irresponsible in retrospect. Desperate on a snowboard

December 1996

Chamonix , 🏂 👟 FW

We only had three days as the following days was ear marked for Christmas purposes. There where a lot of nice offpiste riding

October 1996

Grande Veine Bleu f6a, 30m 🔩 lead OR HW

Bloc Note f5c, 30m 🔩🎬Video lead OR HW

Le Tozal f5c, 30m 🔩 lead OR

La Voliere f5b, 30m 🔩 lead OR

Ole almost bought the ticket on this climb. He climbed up after me, but did not unclip. I thought he was fiddling around on the ground so I kept feeding rope out (he was out of sight) and then as he climbed past a bulge I imidiately realised the catastrophy. I told Ole as calm as possible to climb downwards again hoping he would not pop off. Had he slipped he would have decked out proper. Important learning that hopefully ended well.

Nuit de Cauchemar f6b, 90m 🔩 alt DS

Goatchurch Cavern , 2h 🪖 MI

Started caving at 11pm!

Otter Hole , 10h 🪖 💯🍒📚Report FW TW DG

The entrance of Otter Hole has an exiting feature. The river Wye is tidal so the entrance is only open an hour or two during low tide. When the water comes in the entrance (and exit!) closes for about 10 hours which means that once we enter we are comitted for the whole day.

September 1996

Various Routes , 170ft alt MI

July 1996

Goatchurch Cavern , 🪖 FW MF

Entertaining trip. Went all the way past the Drainpipe and up in the letterbox.

Black Mountains , 2h 🚴 🚙 🍒 WW SL

Hardcore uphill. Fun downhill.

June 1996

A lot of nice routes VS, 200ft alt SF

Osiris VS 4c, 36m lead WW

May 1996

Argonaut VS 4c, 80ft lead JI

Solid Air HS 4a, 70ft second JI

Solid Air S, 110ft alt JI

March 1996

Chamonix , 🏂 👟 solo

Spent two months in Chamonix, one week in Serre Chevalier (and La Grave) and one week in Val d'Isere. The off piste conditions in Val d'Isere was unbelievably good.

La Grave , 🏂 👟 LK

First time in La Grave with Lars. What a place.

February 1996

Beitostoelen , 🏂 👟 HW, OR

Skiing with family

October 1995

Coronation Street E1 4b 4a 5b 5a 5b 5a, 390ft 🍒🔥🎖📚Report alt FW

I still wake up with cold sweat on my forehead.

Finale Groove HVS 4c, 100ft 🍒 lead FW

Giant's Cave Butress VS 4c 4a 4c, 250ft alt FW MF

September 1995

Suspense HVS 5a, 110ft lead FW

Limbo HVS 5b 4b, 150ft sec FW

All For One... HVS 5a, 85ft sec FW

Bitter Battle Tears HVS 5a, 85ft lead FW

Laughing Cavaliers HVS 5a, 90ft sec FW

Emotional Dyslexia HVS 5a, 85ft lead FW

Organ Grinder HVS 4c, 85ft sec FW

Tigers Don't Cry HVS 5a, 85ft 🔥 lead FW

The Arete VD 4a, 120ft ☔ alt FW

Pissing rain and big boots.

June 1995

La Titi V+, 70m 🔩☔ alt FW

It pissed down when we climbed the second pitch

L'arete des Bucherons V+, 25m 🔩 sec FW

La Batson f6a+, 20m 🔩 sec- FW

La Saphir/Sortie des Artistes V+, 80m 🔩 alt FW

Petite Aiguille I IV, 25m 🔩 sec FW

Debilodrome V, 25m 🔩 lead FW

Les Trois Peches f6a, 100m 🔩 alt FW

Super Sirene V, 100m 🔩 alt- FW

Petite Aiguille II IV, 25m 🔩 lead FW

May 1995

Le Pilier V+, 30m 🔩 sec FW DS

Le Diedre de Gauche V+, 30m 🔩 sec FW DS

Le Ckisia f6a+, 27m 🔩 sec FW DS

Jypsckey f6b, 27m 🔩 sec FW DS

February 1995

Beitostoelen , 🏂 👟 HW

Skiing with family

January 1995

Transcript Direct VS 5a, 50ft sec FW

Crown of Thorns S, 135ft 🦎 alt FW

Rib and Slab VD, 250ft 🦎 alt FW HW

The Wrinkle VD, 235ft 🦎 alt FW HW

Lion VS 4c, 285ft 🦎 alt FW

Crackstone Rib S, 175ft 🦎 alt FW

Dives/Better Things HS 4a, 210ft 🦎 alt FW

November 1994

Helsingor Wreck , 12m 🤿 🍒 JR

First dive. Together with Jesper who had lined up all the gear from a local diving club. We practiced first at the shallow water at the beach and then took a dingy out and dived down to a small wreck in the middle of Oresund. Quite exiciting.

September 1994

Lots of blocs f6a, 8m 👊 lead JR

July 1994

Sidcots Swallet , 2h 🪖 FW

Goatchurch Cavern , 2h 🪖 🍒🔥 FW

Our first cave ever. Excellent trip. Photo

Swildons Hole , 4h 🪖 FW

Furesoen , 1h 🏄 ⛵ solo

Learned to windsurf locally in Holte.

January 1994

A Dream of White Horses HVS 4c 4c 4c, 350ft 🍒📚Report alt FW

Creagh Dhu Wall HS, 200ft alt FW HW

Grooved Arete VD, alt FW HW

Tennis Shoe S, 465ft alt FW HW

Paco Eugene f6a, 🔩 alt FW

Algo Sobrela Virgin f6b, 🔩 lead FW

El Perito Caliente f6a+, 🔩 sec FW

Aspro Manis f5+, 🔩 sec FW

Gecha el Cielo f4+ 6a 5 5+ 5+, 390ft 🔩 alt FW

Avion Roquero f5+, 210ft 🔩 alt FW DS

Zeppelin f6a+, 250ft 🔩🥀🌤 alt FW

We gave up on pitch 4 because it was burning hot and too difficult.

Troncomouil f6a, 🔩 lead FW

Amptrax f5, 560ft 🔩 alt FW

Camello Cojo f5, 🔩 sec FW

Fisura de Los Santos f5, 🔩 lead FW

El Monstruo de Las Galletas f5+, 🔩 sec FW

Inominata f5, 🔩 lead FW

Number 1 f4, 🔩 sec FW

Super Galetta f5+, 🔩 lead FW

Los Mandriles No Comen Galletas f6a, 🔩 sec FW

Empotrador Empotrad f4+, 🔩 alt FW

Amarilla f5+, 140ft 🔩 sec FW DS

The Wire VS, 300ft 🍒🔥💀🎖 alt FW

Wild ride on the wire. Required careful preparation and a full package of yoor.

El Regreso del Patron f7a, 🔩📚Report alt- FW

We didn't have a topo at this time and the line looked reasonable. It wasn't so we went off route to easier ground before the crux

Barrio Conflictivo f6a+, 🔩 lead FW

Esponlon del Rampa f6a, 🔩 FW

Papeo Chachi f6a, 🔩 FW

Super Lopez f6b, 🔩 FW

McNesio f6a, 🔩 FW

Diedre IV+, sec FW

Waterloo V+, 🔩 lead FW

No Repercute f6a+, 🔩 sec- FW

El Senor de las Bestitas f6b, 🔩 lead FW

January 1993

Many Routes f6a, 🔩📚Report alt DS

January 1992

One tricky move VS 4b, 8m lead

Originalruten D, 18m lead

Diedren D, 14m lead

Den store diedre D, 14m lead

Toebrud D, 20m lead

Ventetiden S, 20m lead

Svenskeruten VS 4b, 18m 🍒 lead

Finger jam VS 4b, 13m 🍒 lead

Spirillen VS 4a, 12m lead

Pentymal/Daffy jam VS 4a, 12m lead

Diedren VD, 12m lead

Den stejle groove S, 12m lead

Traditionel VD, 22m lead

Den hoeje travers VS 4b, 50m lead

Klasisk IV S, 25m lead

Koalakanten VS 4c, 18m top

P.S. Diedren HS, 18m lead

Originalruten S, 20m lead

A little piece of quartz got into my eye and I had to get it out with local anastaetic the next day on the hospital. Very nasty.

Svaeveflyvervaeggen S, 40m lead

Myretuen S, 18m lead

Svenskervaeggen S, 50m lead

Lynet A1/2, 22m 🍒 lead JR

My first aid climb. Excellent stuff. I fell on my smallest rp and it held. Good good fun.

January 1991

Traditionel D, 22m 🍒🎖 sec JR SH

September 1991. My first ever climb. Jesper Ritzau took Simon Hauch and me up this 2 pitch route on Aakermansberget on Kullen. I was pretty excited for almost a whole year having done this one climb. It was good fun and it was the start of something big!

Wish list

Juvsojla, Rjukan W6, 200m ⛏ 🔘 WISH

Lipton, Rjukan W7, 200m ⛏ 🔘📸📸 WISH

Tuborg, Utby E3, 25m 🔘 WISH

Great Crack, Lexby E2, 25m 🔘 WISH

Machu Pichu, Granitgrotten E3, 30m 🔘 WISH

Tor Line, Haller E3, 25m 🔘 WISH

Stone Temple Pilot, Binghult E3, 25m 🔘 WISH

Melange, Tullboden E3, 20m 🔘📸 WISH

Ingmars Kamin, Valserod E1, 25m 🔘 WISH

Black Shiver, Yorkshire , 🪖 🔘 WISH

Freak Brothers, Kullen E4 5c, 15m 🔘 WISH

Yosemite, Kullen E2 5c, 20m 🔘 WISH

Torsketaket, Valserod E3 6a, 25m 🔘 WISH

Svart Intrusion, Dingle E2 5b, 35m 🔘 WISH

Tydliga Hoernet, Haller E3 5c, 20m 🔘 WISH

Välkommen till Bohuslän, Bohusporten E1, 15m 🔘 WISH

Strix, Bohus E1, 20m 🔘 WISH

ELENA MUIERRTAS, Binghult E1, 20m 🔘 WISH

ZORRO, Binghult E2, 20m 🔘 WISH