| Route |
Crag |
Grade |
Height  |
*** |
Notes |
Date |
People |
|
|
| super direct |
pdfi |
VI |
400m |
 |
F.A.   |
7/8/03 |
Nick_Barro |
| fantastic location, new route, took 12 hours to complete and descended in the dark. Very poor rock for natural protection, some very long and run out exposed pitches. Needs a long neck to lead. |
 |
| Regular Route aka Triple Cracks |
Slick |
5.7 |
400m |
 |
|
0/8/04 |
jsb, Scott P |
| You can shave off a pitch or 2 simulclimbing the easy part. Rapping one of the bolted routes saves a nasty gully descent. |
|
| Memorial Route |
Slick |
5.9- ? |
400m |
|
 |
19/8/05 |
jsb(2,4,6,8), Scott P(1,3,5,7) |
| Great granite slab. Almost all footwork. Well bolted. |
|
| Chapelle de la Glière |
Cham |
D /IV+ |
400m |
|
|
14/7/03 |
NisseN(1,3,5,6), Lena(2,4) |
|
| Standard East Face |
fltirn |
5.6 |
390m |
|
|
16/2/95 |
siebri(1,4) |
|
| Mot Sola |
HGF |
6 |
385m |
|
|
10/6/00 |
NisseN |
|
| Raeburns Gully |
CRM |
I |
360m |
|
solo |
19/2/01 |
Matt, Richard |
|
| Via Lara |
HGF |
4 |
350m |
|
|
23/4/03 |
NisseN(L), PeckaP(L) |
|
| Via Lara |
HGF |
4 |
350m |
|
|
20/8/03 |
NisseN(L) |
|
| Via Lara |
HGF |
4 |
350m |
|
|
10/6/00 |
NisseN |
|
| Albahida |
Sa Gubia |
3,4+,3+,3+,4+,3,3 |
340m |
|
|
22/7/04 |
TomB(1,2,4,5,7), Lou(3,6) |
| This Crag is the jewel in Mallorca's crown. Plenty of development possible. However, DON'T walk off this route it is avery long option. Also take plenty of slings most of the pro is threads. |
|
| Magical Mystery Tour |
Tor |
HVS 5a |
330m |
|
  solo |
14/9/96 |
mb(L), bruntt(L) |
| Mainly climbed solo - we got the rope out for two sections, one of which required a point of aid. An amazing expedition culminating in a swim. |
|
| Sahara Terror |
Tahq |
5.7 |
330m |
|
|
29/5/05 |
krylov(2,4,5,6,8), MarkMM(1,3,7) |
| Excellent route: long, sustained, cool climbing. The amount of loose rock is terrifying -- I slinged a huge block and started to pull on it, and then the damn thing started to move -- we would be both gone if it'd fell... The guide book description is not very accurate. 1st pitch -- relatively easy climbing connecting broken cracks to the ledge with a tree. Mark says that when there is no snow at the base of the climb, one can scramble over from the left to the first belay station. Second pitch: straight up crack, past the roof and tree in the crack, to the base of dogleg crack. 3rd pitch: dogleg crack, then straight up crack, to the small belay ledge. 4th and 5th piches can be linked. 4th: straight up, face-crack climbing, to the alcove (was freezing cold!). 5th: couple of steps left and up, past a number of fixed pins, belay at the pin which is past the only bolt, with a little tree to the right. 6th: move right to the tree and up - exciting roof move, then straight up crack. Then I took left of two wider cracks (right was too loose), almost chimney, then traversed to the right one, and belayed at the base of the chimney. 7th: chimney. 8th: short and easy low angle to the top, curving to the left, past big black summit block. |
|
| Fairview Dome - Regular Route |
Toul |
5.9 [15] |
300m |
|
|
27/9/97 |
fred(L), Tim(L) |
| An epic climb. We climbed the last five pitches with head-lamps - at one stage we considered spending the night on the wall. We topped out after 9 hours on the route, cold and very thirsty. Then we had to get down. |
|
| Fairview Dome - Regular Route |
Toul |
5.9 [15] |
300m |
|
 |
17/10/98 |
Mathias(L), mb(L) |
| We videoed the ascent. Come around my boat if you want to see it. |
|
| Fairview Dome - Regular Route |
Toul |
5.9 [15] |
300m |
|
|
10/6/00 |
stone(L), Scott |
| done this twice now and i reckon it's 5.5 at least to top out.
hence with a 50 meter rope: 5.9,5.8,5.7,5.8,5.6,5.7,5.5,-,-,-,5.5.
have seen a marmot free solo first pitch so it might be overgraded. |
|
| Fairview Dome - Regular Route |
Toul |
5.9 [15] |
300m |
|
|
13/6/99 |
mb(2,8), bruntt(1,3,4,5,6,7,9,10) |
|
| Fairview Dome - Regular Route |
Toul |
5.9 [15] |
300m |
|
|
30/6/02 |
Alexey(1,3,5,7,9,11), Ron(2,4,6,8,10) |
| My birthday climb. First multy-pitch 5.9. We were first at 7AM |
|
| Lucky Streaks |
Toul |
5.9,5.9,5.10d,5.9,5.9,5.8 |
300m |
|
 |
26/6/01 |
stone(5,6), ErikN(1,2,3,4) |
| truly awesome |
|
| Regular Route |
Slick |
5.6 [7] |
300m |
|
|
30/9/01 |
fred(L), Will(L) |
| Excellent fun on perfect, slabby granite. Hairy descent in the dark. What a great day back on the rock. |
|
| La Saphir/Sortie des Artistes |
Cal |
4,-,5-,5+ |
300m |
 |
|
3/6/95 |
fred(L), Mathias(L) |
|
| La Saphir/Sortie des Artistes |
Cal |
4,-,5-,5+ |
300m |
|
|
3/6/95 |
fred(L), Mathias(L) |
|
| La Saphir/Sortie des Artistes |
Cal |
4,-,5-,5+ |
300m |
|
F.A.   solo |
23/7/02 |
franceswh(1,4) |
| a very nice climbing |
|
| La Saphir/Sortie des Artistes |
Cal |
4,-,5-,5+ |
300m |
|
F.A.solo |
23/7/02 |
franceswh(1,4) |
| a very nice climbing |
|
| La Saphir/Sortie des Artistes |
Cal |
4,-,5-,5+ |
300m |
|
F.A.solo |
23/7/02 |
franceswh(1,4) |
| a very nice climbing |
|
