| Route |
Crag |
Grade  |
Height |
*** |
Notes |
Date |
People |
|
|
|
| Obsession Fatale |
Roa |
E8 6c |
10m |
 |
  |
17/1/04 |
Mark |
| Extremely intense and delicate climbing, cleanly top roped, now wheres that bouncy castle. |
 |
| Obsession Fatale |
Roa |
E8 6c |
10m |
|
|
24/1/04 |
Mark |
| Top-roped clean again straight out of the car, but started raining soon after. |
|
| Obsession Fatale |
Roa |
E8 6c |
10m |
|
 solo |
2/2/02 |
ms |
| e7 6b, |
|
| Obsession Fatale |
Roa |
E8 6c |
10m |
|
|
21/2/04 |
Mark(L) |
| Escellent weather but very windy above. Top roped it cleanly about 3 times and then went for it. Fortunately no sewing machine leg was involved so I was successful. |
|
|
| Catch Me if You Can |
LittleWill |
5.13a |
60m |
|
 |
12/5/07 |
krylov |
| Well, cannto say I actually climbed it, except for the approach pitch (5.9 slab). The lower boulder crux is hard, pulled on the draws. The face is very interesting, I got half way up before bailing. |
|
|
| never never land |
Ram |
e7 6b |
11m |
|
solo |
|
ms |
|
| dangerous crocodile snogging |
Ram |
e7 6c |
11m |
|
 |
|
ms(L) |
|
| b4xs |
Hen Cloud |
e7 6b |
26m |
|
 |
|
ms(L) |
| exposed exposed exposed |
|
|
| Piece of Mind |
Roa |
E6 6b |
|
|
|
26/4/03 |
Mark |
|
| Piece of Mind |
Roa |
E6 6b |
|
|
|
26/4/03 |
Prim, markcc, YvetteL |
| Climbed on top rope |
|
| Piece of Mind |
Roa |
E6 6b |
|
|
|
27/7/03 |
Prim, IanF |
| 2nd attempt of top rope to complete this route. Since a great way to start a day as it teaches you to trust your feet |
|
| Piece of Mind |
Roa |
E6 6b |
|
 |
aid |
4/10/03 |
Prim, YvetteL |
| I will have this climb, just one move on to the face and then to climb it without a rope on - scary thought |
|
| Piece of Mind |
Roa |
E6 6b |
|
 |
solo |
2/3/01 |
ms |
|
| 10000 tons of chicken shit |
bus stop |
E6 6b |
12m |
|
|
4/3/03 |
rockguruag |
| i only top roped it with a rest but i love it, probably too hard for me to enjoy fully |
|
| master of reality |
Hen Cloud |
e6 6c |
10m |
|
|
|
ms(L) |
|
| The Cad |
Gog |
E6 6a |
37m |
|
|
11/11/04 |
Nick_Barro |
| Absolutely fantastic route, got to the best wall climb I have ever done, a definite contender for resurection as the best single pitch in North Wales that I have had the pleasure of climbing. The weather was appaling but brightened up slightly at Holyhead although everything was still damp and greasy. Abseiled down to North Stack and cleaned the route a little and found that the old bolt could still possibly be used with a wire drapped over it. Top roped the route and it felt pretty good although wet and greasy. All the holds are there and there is no real desperate section, although a definite crux section, it's not to bad for 6a. The flake takes a good friend 2.5 that slots in neatly but limits the use of the undercut. A good nut 1 also slots in near the top and seats quite well. The sequence right to the old bolt is not to bad and once at the bolt can stand in a fairly relaxed position. The wall above looked a lot blanker than on a top rope and teh adrenaline started to flow. The moves past the bolt flashed by and before I knew it I was well above the gear. Good holds loomed above and there was just one awkward section to get the good holds and the relative sanctuary of the ledge. Att he ledge a good piece of gear goes in behind a large block and just when think it's all over a move before the top my feet skid off the wet lichen. Thinking I've messed up big time my feet scrabling against the rock, suddenly my right foot lodges on a small edge and I can grasp the very wet top, much to my relief. A route that certain leaves an impression and an experience I will remember for a long time.
The climbing is much easier than Positron, nowhere near as strenuous but exceptionally serious! |
|
|
| Sardine |
Raven Tor |
F7b+ |
20m |
|
|
18/9/05 |
rufus, Robert(1) |
| After my failed attempt on a 7a+ Rob, without a warm up tried Sardine. His second attempt, this time with one rest. Very hard and sustained route I managed it with one rest on the second. |
|
|
| Moonlight Buttress |
Zion |
5.12, C1 |
555m |
|
aid |
9/6/99 |
Schaarschm |
|
|
| Anatema |
Elch |
7b |
15m |
|
|
|
fred, Mathias(L) |
|
| Anatema |
Elch |
7b |
15m |
|
|
|
fred, Mathias(L) |
|
| Anatema |
Elch |
7b |
15m |
|
|
3/4/01 |
Jacob(1) |
|
| Frankenstein |
Mal |
7b |
20m |
|
|
26/4/95 |
Timbo(L) |
| Hardest Redpoint so far |
|
|
| Chossfire |
NJC |
5.12b |
|
|
|
3/2/03 |
mchaff2(1) |
|
| Fear and Loathing |
Redroc |
5.12a |
|
|
|
20/2/03 |
mchaff2 |
|
| Mohawk |
Frust |
5.12a |
|
|
|
14/1/03 |
mchaff2 |
|
