1. dont abseil down it to start! (walk in with axes, boots and crampons - so you can bail out if you need to)
2. carry wires and friends, even some pegs if early in season.
3. don't understimate climbing 6a at 3,600 m altitude on granite.
4. don't get stormed on and have to cut your jammed abseil rope.
5. dont get committed into leading all the pitches - you need to be an equally strong team.
1st time I tried this there were good pitons on the first belay and the 'S' crack on the 2nd pitch. we got stormed off from the 3rd pitch - heavy snow and thunderstorm (In June) + lost 20m from one of our ropes which got jammed on the abseil. The second time I climbed the entire route - but made the mistake of abseiling in - a. scary, b. committing, c.find the right abseil (i.e. from the very top of the pillar- dodgy to get to) all the pitons had been removed from the frist belay - possible just to get a thread below the pillar on the frist stance. the 6a crux on the overhang directly from the stance was exciting to say the least with NO gear and one piton at the bottom of the crack (HARD), the rest of the pitches went smoothly until we lost the route somewhere on the 5/6 pitch (two parties abseiled down without toping out cos the upper part had snow on the ledges - OH good - we were committed into climbing it as we had no snow gear to walk back up with. I ended up climbing a greassy groove - nightmare trying to get started snanding in collapsing snow, slanting up and right and then broke left to a bolt belay - had to aid climb bolt to bolt up something that was F..... hard, but got us to the right hand side of the summit pillar. dodgy traverse behind the pillar before abseiling down to cable car station, snow bridge collapsed as our last person crossed it - now 7pm - cable car station locked - more dodgy climbing down and into the bit where the cable car from hellebronner enters - unlocked the door from inside - phew we werent going to die of exposure - slept in the toilet after talking to the staff(24hr) and relaying messages to wives and girlfriends. (ozboz)